Electric Trailer brakes and Lights
Does anyone have any information about getting electric breaks and trailer lights on a series I? I called U-haul today and they didn't have the wiring harness in their system and recommended that I go to the dealer? I really don't want to pay dealer price for this considering the brakes will only get used a few times a year.
Has anyone had any luck with their local installers (doesn't matter which state) or RV dealers getting the parts? I could probably hook it up myself, but i really don't want to take the chance.
I'm currenlty pulling a travel trailer that is right at 4000 lbs with a 5 cyl Chevy Colorado, but it maxes it out. I know that the discovery can do a much better job at pulling, but it just doesn't stop without the brakes.
Any input is appreciated.
Has anyone had any luck with their local installers (doesn't matter which state) or RV dealers getting the parts? I could probably hook it up myself, but i really don't want to take the chance.
I'm currenlty pulling a travel trailer that is right at 4000 lbs with a 5 cyl Chevy Colorado, but it maxes it out. I know that the discovery can do a much better job at pulling, but it just doesn't stop without the brakes.
Any input is appreciated.
Try www.atlanticbritish.com, and just because it isint on their site doesnt mean that they dont have it or know where you can get one.
Assuming you need\use a brake controller, look at this site for your setup:
http://www.accessconnect.com/brake_control_install.htm
To run the brake controller you should run a circuit protected separate line to the battery. You can damage the trucks electronics drawing too much amperage. There is a kit shown on that page.
You will need a taillight converter(truck has separate amber turn signals). If your travel trailer is running more running lights and backup lights than a simple 4 pole trailer connection handles, then you need a converter with isolated power (like the brakes), to handle the extra amps. At the bottom of the referenced webpage is a link to their converters.
The Alanticbritish site has a converter with a Disco I\II specific harness connector pre-attached for $70-$100. You need to check if it can handle your amperage load, if you are interested in it.
http://www.accessconnect.com/brake_control_install.htm
To run the brake controller you should run a circuit protected separate line to the battery. You can damage the trucks electronics drawing too much amperage. There is a kit shown on that page.
You will need a taillight converter(truck has separate amber turn signals). If your travel trailer is running more running lights and backup lights than a simple 4 pole trailer connection handles, then you need a converter with isolated power (like the brakes), to handle the extra amps. At the bottom of the referenced webpage is a link to their converters.
The Alanticbritish site has a converter with a Disco I\II specific harness connector pre-attached for $70-$100. You need to check if it can handle your amperage load, if you are interested in it.
A good place to have your D1 wired for a trailer with brakes would be at a Camping World store. Any rv dealer should be able to do it also. There is a plug in harness available but you can use a universal kit as long as it includes the converter box since your D1 has separate turn signals and brake lights. It's really not that tough. As for the brakes, that should be pretty easy also for any rv shop. The important part is to run a dedicated power line direct from the battery with an inline fuse to keep from frying the rest of the electrical system.
I installed my trailer brake controller myself in my disco II. My truck already had the trailering package, but it was just for a four flat connector. I went to Wal-Mart and bought a 7 round RV plug for my truck. I used a test light to determine which wires from the adaptor behind the right tailight went to which terminal on the RV plug. I then had to run a power wire to the controller to supply power to the controller form the underhood fuse box. I simply plugged into a hot unfused terminal in the box and put a 35 amp fuse inline to protect from short circuits. I then ran a wire from the fuse box under the hood with an inline fuse to the RV connector on the back that i was installing. This wire was for the charger forthe breakaway kit on the trailer. I fortunately had empty spaces in my fuse box that were unused so i could crimp a spade terminal into the wiring and plug straight in. When i ran the wiring, i used a section of old water hose to protect the wiring from abrasions and heat. I secured the hose to the undercarriage AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS. Dont forget that you have to splice your signal wire into the cold side of the brakelight switch. You have to splice onto the cold side so that your brakes are not on all the time, just when you apply the brakes. I hope this helps.
I got tired of looking for a set up in the after market........what a hassle. Considering all of the gremlins we have to deal with in our beloved Discos, I went with the LR made set. Easily installed and thus far problem free (4 years).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bcolins
Discovery II
12
Aug 6, 2015 08:38 AM
mtr1974
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
1
Feb 28, 2013 09:37 PM




