Electric Water Pump Conversion?
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
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ya that thread Dusty made about that EWP install was totally pointless; I mean there's literally 3-pages of nothing. In the couple hours that I spent looking over some specs and highlights of Craig Davies EWP on EBay, it seems that the upgraded kit set up as a booster would do everything that we are interested in. Basically, you would plumb it inline of the bottom radiator hose; at least that's where I read it is supposed to install. The programmer that comes in the most complete setups allows you to program several diff' parameters & runs @ engine shutoff per factory setting. With engine running it cuts on when coolant hits a targeted temp & pumps til the temp drops a few deg back down below the target (not unlike elec' fans) Furthermore, it will control electric fans as well. I would just use it as a booster first but I think it would work great in that application if i can get it to mesh with what I have then maybe install a 2nd, uprated aux' fan to run off the booster pump programmer and/or ditch the LR fan altogether. I like the idea of the whole thing & being able to keep my engine right @ 180 regardless of circumstances.
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
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Addressing placement, I do see your point about the booster pump being behind the WYE as it branches off to tank before the mech' WP... will have to think on that 1. Even though I mod'Ed the factory stat out completely, it still leaves the multidirectional fitting so even further mod' may be required. Wye @ radiator outlet and the 1.5-inch to booster to mech WP, then the tank & heater return would be on their own behind them.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 111
From: Dallas, TX
That kit looks pretty good. As you said, looks like it could do everything. I just did the heads on this engine; I would really like to have consistent temps for piece of mind. I have a friend that builds race engines that might know something about these. I'll see what he says.
TReK
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,186
Likes: 200
From: Linden, NJ
I have looked into squashing the second fan behind the grill. Looks like the fan I have will fit, but I'm not all that sure it'll help that much. My temps shoot up 5-6 degrees with the A/C on regardless of the fan and in Florida, the A/C is on virtually all the time.
I know in my BMW the water pump actually does run after you shut the car off for a little bit until the temps get down. It works extremely well at preventing heat soak in the aluminum straight-6. I have watched it with my Ultragauge. It also gives significantly better control of the temps in general, which is something I would like.
Ideally, I would like to have it so that when the truck is idling or under heavy load the electric pump could pick up some of the slack of the main pump. It would run for 2-5 minutes or so after shutoff to cool the engine back down. It also would be nice to have override switch that could be toggled to run the pump at max.
The biggest issue I have with the pump is placement. I feel like it would have to be placed right before the stock pump, which would be a tight fit. I don't think you could put it between the radiator and junction with the coolant expansion tank, as I feel like it would just shoot the coolant up in the expansion tank. I would like it to go on the top, but I wonder about fitment and if it would cause a lot of pressure on the radiator.
I wonder how Dusty did it before? I'm up for trying something. I could try it on my parts Disco with rod knock first.
I know in my BMW the water pump actually does run after you shut the car off for a little bit until the temps get down. It works extremely well at preventing heat soak in the aluminum straight-6. I have watched it with my Ultragauge. It also gives significantly better control of the temps in general, which is something I would like.
Ideally, I would like to have it so that when the truck is idling or under heavy load the electric pump could pick up some of the slack of the main pump. It would run for 2-5 minutes or so after shutoff to cool the engine back down. It also would be nice to have override switch that could be toggled to run the pump at max.
The biggest issue I have with the pump is placement. I feel like it would have to be placed right before the stock pump, which would be a tight fit. I don't think you could put it between the radiator and junction with the coolant expansion tank, as I feel like it would just shoot the coolant up in the expansion tank. I would like it to go on the top, but I wonder about fitment and if it would cause a lot of pressure on the radiator.
I wonder how Dusty did it before? I'm up for trying something. I could try it on my parts Disco with rod knock first.
Gerry
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,387
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From: Dallas, TX
No, a booster WP can't & wont be "counter-productive." it could possibly be a negative if a second pump were running nonstop but if it's pulsing to maintain a desired temp range then, it is maintaining the same way a 2nd fan does to aid in cooling. Rover didn't get it right with the volume/capacity of factory radiator, the mechanical water pump, and everything else as a whole. If you don't have cooling problems, why were you just replacing your head gaskets? The aux fan doesn't aid in cooling. Ever watched your temp while it runs? I'm not talking about the 210 threshold or whatever, just the AC turned on, 85-degree ambient temp. A good pusher fan would actually drop the engine temp a few deg or at the very least just maintain what it's at before the AC turns on. the factory aux fan won't do it--your temp will raise another 5-deg with AC running.
If you were to look at spec-sheets on EWP it instructs that they can successfully be used as boosters. Hell, even if you were right, I would love to have 1 there just to circulate when the engine is off; you did see the mention of heat sink. But you don't live in the South or have cooling system problems so why don't you just propose some more of your cooling hacks for us hillbilly dummies. Anything but an oil cooler above the catalytic converter or "under the pass' floor" as you put it.
If you were to look at spec-sheets on EWP it instructs that they can successfully be used as boosters. Hell, even if you were right, I would love to have 1 there just to circulate when the engine is off; you did see the mention of heat sink. But you don't live in the South or have cooling system problems so why don't you just propose some more of your cooling hacks for us hillbilly dummies. Anything but an oil cooler above the catalytic converter or "under the pass' floor" as you put it.
Last edited by chubbs878; Mar 13, 2017 at 09:01 PM.
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
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I joined that club as well over Xmas holidays & I spent a lot of time & cash rebuilding the top end; don't care to ever see the bottom of those cyl' heads again so a couple-$$ and a week of tinkering is fine with me. I was obsessed with coolant temps on this truck way before 1 of the HG ever let go @ the water jacket & I think with a couple more mods I wouldn't be asking too much.
Ideally, this video really shows the end goal. This would work just like the BMW.
I agree. There is simply not enough cooling capacity for the amount of heat these engines put off. Not after 10+ years of use. Especially under load.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,387
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From: Dallas, TX
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr..._5IaAlti8P8HAQ
This is the model Dusty was installing before his thread stalled: Davies Craig EWP115 with controller & thermostatic switch. Specs for v6 or V8 up to 3.5L
May be work well as a booster but could be undersized if converted to a standalone.
And then their version of a mounting bracket:
http://daviescraig.com.au/product/ew...5-130-150-8700
This is the model Dusty was installing before his thread stalled: Davies Craig EWP115 with controller & thermostatic switch. Specs for v6 or V8 up to 3.5L
May be work well as a booster but could be undersized if converted to a standalone.
And then their version of a mounting bracket:
http://daviescraig.com.au/product/ew...5-130-150-8700
Last edited by chubbs878; Mar 13, 2017 at 10:28 PM.
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 469
Likes: 193
According to this link, I would probably go with the 130 at a minimum.
Davies Craig Reinvents the Electric Water Pump - Hot Rod Network
That seems to confirmed by this page:
Davies Craig Electric Water Pumps (EWP) Information
Attached charts from Craig Davis website say 130 for off-road.
Davies Craig Reinvents the Electric Water Pump - Hot Rod Network
That seems to confirmed by this page:
Davies Craig Electric Water Pumps (EWP) Information
Attached charts from Craig Davis website say 130 for off-road.
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 469
Likes: 193
Was also thinking something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wp136s/overview/
If you just wanted a booster, I think it would work good.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wp136s/overview/
If you just wanted a booster, I think it would work good.
Last edited by CaptainAaron; Mar 13, 2017 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Wrong link
Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 340
Likes: 28
From: Central Texas
Addressing placement, I do see your point about the booster pump being behind the WYE as it branches off to tank before the mech' WP... will have to think on that 1. Even though I mod'Ed the factory stat out completely, it still leaves the multidirectional fitting so even further mod' may be required. Just move the Wye back to the radiator outlet and the 1.5-inch line to booster to mech WP, then the tank & heater return only need be extended another foot with a couple of barb'ed couplings & everything is back in order. I can appreciate your foresight.