I completed the reassembly of the upper engine today after replacing the head gaskets. Upon re-connecting the battery two things happened: 1) the hazard lights came on without the key in the ignition and would not go off when the switch on the dash was toggled and only stopped when the battery was disconnected; 2) while tightening the positive battery connector with ratchet wrench the handle made contact with the car body by the metal in front of the battery box which made a loud spark large enough to singe the paint and create smoke. I felt no electrical shock at all. At that point, I disconnected the negative battery cable and closed the hood.

The battery is a 4 month old Duralast Platinum AGM. It was on a maintain/trickle charge for the past few days. I have not yet attempted to start the vehicle.

Any advice appreciated.

 

Congratulations on your head gasket job.

You may have hit the inertial switch. It is on the passenger side firewall. Try pressing it (down... it is black and round and bolted to the firewall) and if you feel a click everything should be fine.

Otherwise I would guess alarm but you didn't mention the horn.

Best,


Charlie V

 

Probably the inertia switch like Charlie said, I had the same issue earlier this week actually when fixing some rust. When it's tripped, it will throw the hazards on, unlock all the doors, and immobilize the engine.

Back on the firewall next to the strut and the exhaust manifold

 

Always connect the positive terminal first, then the negative. You will get no sparking, if you ground the positive connection doing it this way.

I'd hit the remote a few times, locking and unlocking the doors, might reset something. Like Charlie said, would have thought alarm...but you have no horn beeping.

Anyhow, good luck with the start up.

Brian.

 

So I hold down the inertial switch and lock/unlock 3 times to reset? The battery has been disconnected for 2 months but on the slow charger for 3 days prior to reinstallation yesterday.

What should I expect when starting it? What should and shouldn't I do? Do I have to bleed the fuel system before starting? Do I need to spray starter fluid in the throtte?


Thanks.

 

Before you start it, did you change the oil and filter?

 

Do you believe in God...if so...praying is never a bad thing.

Yes, you should always change oil and filter after a head gasket job. Anit-freeze can enter the interior of the engine, where it doesn't belong and mix with engine oil. Not good.

Fuel lines/injectors should self-bleed themselves after a few revolutions. No ether necessary.

Hope she starts and runs great!

Brian.

 

I completely drained the oil and coolant prior to disassembly. I doused the rockers push rods valves and lifters with clean motor oil just prior to reassembly. Yesterday, I refilled with Rotella T5, replaced the filter with a new Mobil 1 and added all new coolant.

 

Was 1) before or after 2), the arcing and sparking?
......

 

I would have drained it one more time, after dousing the rockers and lifters. Getting all of the coolant out of the block prior to disassembly is very difficult and it usually enters the cylinders/oil pan when pulling the heads. So, if you added fresh oil on top of the residue in pan...it really defeated all purposes of new oil.

For the price of six quarts of oil..I'd drain it again.

Brian.