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not to detract but “production tooling began to wear out” is not a legitimate excuse imo. There has to be another reason our D2’s have the issues.
It just sprang make sense that an engine manufacturer would let worn tools build crappy engines for years
LR was in dire financial straits in the early 00's, several former employees have confirmed this account of the issue, but make up whatever excuse you like better. Its kinda like thinking the "engineers" knew what they were doing when they designed the piece of crap thermostat that came on D2's (never seen on another model before or after).
On the engine front I doubt the tooling was all that bad or every engine from 2000 on would have grenaded. My bet is the tooling was weary but the quality control checks became hit or miss - think chinese quality control but not as bad.
So if you got an engine checked by some one who cared you got a better engine, got one checked by a "slacker" all bets were off.
I found a used engine, but it is still in the truck. How long does it take to get an engine out? We are two people doing this. Can probably cut off some things, since the truck is junk anyway.
Exactly, and the blocks are the same so you can take all of your 4.6 internals and put inside of a 4.0 block. The order of desirability is easy and the exact inverse of year model, so 99 is best and 04 is worst.
Not recommended unless you bore and upsize. The rings on the 4.6 reciprocating assembly will be going over a place not worn by 4.0 rings.
Not recommended unless you bore and upsize. The rings on the 4.6 reciprocating assembly will be going over a place not worn by 4.0 rings.
True, not ideal, but depending on wear it would probably be fine. Typically the wear in the cylinder wall is less than .002 even on blocks with 150k on them (at least on the engines I have had, one exception where a cylinder was wiped but special case). Most are less than .001 and ring won't even notice. Its at the bottom of the stroke, so no significant compression there anyway. I wouldn't hesitate if the block wear was minimal.
Got my replacement engine today. It is from 2000 P38 with 112k miles. Transmission was shot but I could take it for a test drive in first gear. Engine was running much smoother than my D2 engine before it broke and of course no ticking. Engine coolant temps stayed always below 190F (via OBD/Torque). It needs some work, but first I want to do a few tests. Wish me luck!
Hey I am new to this forum. I also have a blown engine with no warning - looking for help in the Atlanta, Ga area. Supercharger over-boosted - which has lead to oil leak, timing chain loose. Recommended work is: replace engine and supercharger, catalytic converters as well. They say repair with a new engine is more than car is worth. Can a used engine be an option and does anyone have recommendations for a shop in or around the Atlanta area.