Good afternoon! I finally finished converting my 99 discovery 2 from 4.0 to a 4.6 (with the exception of an ECU re-flash). Loaded it up with breakin oil and went on a 50 mile drive on an 80 degree day. Seemed to run fine, no lights. Coolant temperature remained at 185 on the highway. Got home and let it idle for about 5-10 minutes before pulling it into the garage for an oil change. As soon as I put it into park to shut her down, the low oil pressure light flickered for 1/2 second then went away. I followed it up with a shutdown. Some questions because I didn’t have a background of driving her before the tear down.

1. engine bay was HOT. To open the hood i had to put on gloves. Is this normal ambient heat?
2. what could’ve caused a low oil px light at the end of my drive?
3. I think my fan clutch might be bad? Seems like it runs at the same RPM as the engine until I get it above 3k or so. Also runs immediately at idle RPM speed which create hurricane winds under the hood.
4. What is normal coolant flow into the expansion tank supposed to look like? Thankfully I don’t see little bubbles or anything.
5. Every time I start up the engine, the low oil pressure light is on the dash for 1 second or so. Is that normal in the D2?

I ended up doing the oil change with Conventional 5W-30 and plan on doing another oil change at 500 miles.

I may be paranoid / overly cautious because on my first very first start up Post rebuild I lost oil pressure and ran it for 5 minutes with the low oil pressure light (culprit: cracked rocker arm).

thanks for all the inputs!

 

So hot you have to open the hood with gloves. ? That’s a new one

break in oil ? Is this a new engine ?
Most here use 15w40

oil pressure well could be

bad oil pressure wire contacting ground ( I had this problem ran a new wire )

oil pressure switch going bad

low oil pressure due to bad or worn oil pump or bearings in the engine going bad

only way to check is to actually check the oil pressure with a gauge

 

I was reading your other post. Did you fix that oil pick up tube issue

 

yes I ended up just buying a used one from a local mechanic. It was bent and by the looks of it it must’ve been by the shop. :/

 

Here is a list of all New components in my engine:

-oil pump
-Oil pressure sensor (the wire is not good condition, maybe that’s the problem)
-harmonic balancer
-hoses
-camshaft
​​​​​-lifters
-gaskets
-piston rings
-rod bearings
-water pump
-power steering system

I would say my engine components are fairly new but since I put in new wear components I was told to treat it as a new engine. After this oil I was planning on switching to maybe 5W-40 or 10W-40

 

My previous engine was broke in on 5w30 synthetic and it burned a quart of oil every 1000 miles.

That happened because it was done by the dealer under warranty, However that was in 2007 by which time they switched over to mostly LR3 and RR's. The LR3's were fine with 5w30, and thats what they used.

I can think of no other reason a brand new from the factroy block would do that.

 

I would verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. I don't know what exact spot to use but I'm sure others can advise on that. If it is low compared to what would be considered normal, then you have an oiling issue. If it is good, then you have an issue with the oil pressure switch/sender.

I would strongly recommend using a heavier weight oil such as 15-40. That in itself may solve the oil pressure issue on its own. Any engine with flat tappet lifters such as ours will be happier and live longer with a heavy oil that has a good amount of zinc. Synthetic or not. I believe it is RPI who use and suggest the Mobil 1 20-50 oil.

Also hope the engines bearing surfaces and other friction points had some assembly lube on them, like rod and main bearings and camshaft bearings. I believe theres also a specific type of break in type of lubricant that is supposed to be applied to the cam lobes and a specific break in procedure to follow. Could be possible clearances were opened up a bit from metal to metal wear before the oil had a chance to get to them.

 

Okay I’ll just bite the bullet then and go buy more oil. I read somewhere you want to use conventional oil during break-ins, and that is less viscous to help the components “shape”, If you will.

 

Rotella 15w40 conventional is usually around $13/gallon at Walmart.

I'd use that.

 

Oil is too light I suspect, I am currently running a Mobil 1 Synthetic 10/30 which is fine under about 203, I start to tick above that at idle, only noticeable outside the cab. Tick vanishes once I hit 1000 rpm or the temps get under 200.
I had minimal tick using 15/40
I am moving up to Amsoil 20/50 for flat tappet engines.

As to the hood heat something is wrong, are you sure your temp monitor was working ?