Engine help :(
I have a 2000 LR Discovery 2 that I paid 1500 for from a person who had a "reputable" mechanic tell him (it was his daughter's car as well) that the engine was toast. It wasn't - get a second opinion from someone who won't charge you $1,000 then tell you that your car is toast. To me that smacks of an unethical mechanic, thus it's possible they screwed with it to make it sound bad so you'd spend more money with them.
get a second opinion from a trustable (not dealership) source.
But if you're dead set on selling it. If it's perfect, it'll bring $1200 at auction and maybe $2000 if you are willing to wait for the right person.
get a second opinion from a trustable (not dealership) source.
But if you're dead set on selling it. If it's perfect, it'll bring $1200 at auction and maybe $2000 if you are willing to wait for the right person.
Use your Cell phone and take a video of the engine clunking.
If you have an iPhone on IOS7 this is easy.
Send the video to youtube or facebook and then put the link on this thread so we can see and hear the rover first hand.
If you have an iPhone on IOS7 this is easy.
Send the video to youtube or facebook and then put the link on this thread so we can see and hear the rover first hand.
Here's the video. It's -10 outside today so the engine is pretty loud. I sat inside since you could hear it better. If you listen closely you can hear it.
How do I know if it's a 2nd air intake or not? I found an engine in Wisconsin that I'm willing to drive and buy, but want to make sure it's correct. I found a friend that could install for $1000.
I've been calling around to salvage yards and the best price so far is $600. It makes me want to throw up.
Two calls from craigslist though, keeping my fingers crossed!
How do I know if it's a 2nd air intake or not? I found an engine in Wisconsin that I'm willing to drive and buy, but want to make sure it's correct. I found a friend that could install for $1000.
I've been calling around to salvage yards and the best price so far is $600. It makes me want to throw up.
Two calls from craigslist though, keeping my fingers crossed!
If you turn all your volumes all the way up you can hear it.
The Bad News: It could be a slipped liner. Since you say its also accompanied by quick overheating, it is probably due to a crack in the block behind it if thats the case.
The Good News: Honestly, it doesnt sound that bad. I was expecting a major klunk-ing like a spun bearing or something. You might not need a new engine. Again, if you read my threads, Ive been driving an 04 with a likely cracked block for 10k miles after running a sealer through it.
That sucks about the salvage pricing...seems pretty low. When I first got my D1 a couple years ago and couldnt get it going, they offered my $450 for that POS. The value probably took a big hit with the year change and the vehicle no longer being <10 years old, but that seems a bit much.
If you have that black cylinder on the left (right behind the coolant bottle), and two of the little silver pods on the right (there will be one on each side of the engine) you have SAI.
The Bad News: It could be a slipped liner. Since you say its also accompanied by quick overheating, it is probably due to a crack in the block behind it if thats the case.
The Good News: Honestly, it doesnt sound that bad. I was expecting a major klunk-ing like a spun bearing or something. You might not need a new engine. Again, if you read my threads, Ive been driving an 04 with a likely cracked block for 10k miles after running a sealer through it.
That sucks about the salvage pricing...seems pretty low. When I first got my D1 a couple years ago and couldnt get it going, they offered my $450 for that POS. The value probably took a big hit with the year change and the vehicle no longer being <10 years old, but that seems a bit much.
If you have that black cylinder on the left (right behind the coolant bottle), and two of the little silver pods on the right (there will be one on each side of the engine) you have SAI.
How much is the used engine? If you do that, make sure to swap out the head gaskets on it before putting it in. It will never be easier time to do it and, on a used engine, will definitely need to be done at some point.
Usually its a good idea to get an honest accurate assessment of the problem before just spending thousands of dollars.
As previously stated, many of use here have been told we need a new motor when in fact that is not the case.
I know its a bit above this threads technical level and apparently a bit controversial but according to the threads referring to "how to tune a Rover V8" the 4.6 blocks were pre selected at the factory for the thickest cylinder walls and thus can withstand more overheating than the 4.0 blocks.
From the information the owner has on her vehicle at this point I'd say it is premature to make any decisions until actual facts are in and a few trusted land rover specific independent mechanics have assessed the situation.
As previously stated, many of use here have been told we need a new motor when in fact that is not the case.
I know its a bit above this threads technical level and apparently a bit controversial but according to the threads referring to "how to tune a Rover V8" the 4.6 blocks were pre selected at the factory for the thickest cylinder walls and thus can withstand more overheating than the 4.0 blocks.
From the information the owner has on her vehicle at this point I'd say it is premature to make any decisions until actual facts are in and a few trusted land rover specific independent mechanics have assessed the situation.
I have an appointment Wednesday at another mechanic. I was surprised myself how quiet it was. This was the first time I turned it on since getting the news.
A friend offered me $1500. That's my last resort option.
A friend offered me $1500. That's my last resort option.
I let it run about 5 min.


