Engine Immobilization or something else?
#12
a CKP sensor can be flakey. Here's a pix. It is a coil of wire. The rod in the center forms a tip that rides in the drilled reluctor disc that is attached to flywheel. A series of about sixty places make the sensor produce a voltage as the disc flys by, like an electric pulse generator. That low voltage signal tells the ECU where the crank is and thus determines when a spark will be called for, based on knock sensors and other sensors. Timing advance is calculated for each and every cylinder and all 8 can be different at the same time. The normal problem starts to show up when you drive somewhere, park, come back in a few minutes (when block has heated up more) and won't start until cooled off. You can pour water on the sensor to speed up the cool down.
If the tip of sensor is bent, or if it is covered with metal "fuzz" it also has problems. If changing (about $70) you have to let new one hang down before remount, every spacer and nut must go back on exact.
May or may not store a trouble code.
If the tip of sensor is bent, or if it is covered with metal "fuzz" it also has problems. If changing (about $70) you have to let new one hang down before remount, every spacer and nut must go back on exact.
May or may not store a trouble code.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 01-29-2013 at 07:12 AM.
#13
The first two times the car would't start it took about a week of sitting before it would start. I tried it daily over three days in the parking lot and it wouldn't start but after a tow and a week sitting it started right up. It ran fine for about a week before it didn't start. This time it wouldn't start after three days of sitting, and it has been 12 degrees or less. I am going to try again tomorrow, four additional days. If it doesn't start I'm going to have it tow and try to start it again. If it does start I'll just drive it home and continue to search for answers. Thanks again.
#14
You need 3 things to make it run. Fuel, Spark, Compression. You've already ruled out no fuel by trying Starting Fluid. You now need to rule out no spark. Try the Spark Plug test Savannah mentioned before, and if no spark, change the CKP as Savannah mentioned before. You have a spare CKP, and since it's free, only time/knuckles invested.
Then if still a problem, trace power from spark plug backwards to battery till you find the break.
I'm assuming it's not turning over REALLY easy like No Compression?
Then if still a problem, trace power from spark plug backwards to battery till you find the break.
I'm assuming it's not turning over REALLY easy like No Compression?
Last edited by SuperSport; 01-30-2013 at 11:11 AM.
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General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
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10-11-2011 09:35 PM