Yesterday without warning the engine died just after leaving home going about 25mph. The engine turned over but no start. 10 mins later while on the phone to AAA I decided to try it one more time and it fired up immediately. I drove about 2 miles, it ran fine and I parked. 2 hours later it started fine but died again at idle before I got out of the parking lot, again engine just turned over with no start. 5 mins later it fired up again fine. A half mile down the road, again at about 25 mph it died, and again started after waiting about 4 or 5 minutes. I drove it about a mile home and parked it. My beginning guess is fuel pump?? Any advice on what it might be or where to start diagnosing the problem??
Thanks,
Doug

’99 DII 96k miles

 

In the D2 the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator are all in one unit in the gas tank. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail of the injector system, a manual pressure guage can be attached there and would be a first step. Good idea for gas tank to be above 1/4 tank if possible, pump is cooled by fuel.

This assumes no codes, like mis-fires, etc.- which might point toward spark issues, other sensors, etc. If you remove a plug do you have spark?

 

Savannah, you cannot check fuel pressure on D2, They are located behind and slightly underneath the upper intake. Plus we have major issues with the crank sensors. Without the proper equipment to see the cranksensor then you can't really say what it is. You can jump the fuel relay to see if it starts but since its intermittent, try spraying water on the backside of the motor on the driverside when it doesn't want to start, to cool down the sensor. If it starts then its the sensor. if it still doesn't start then you have to do some old fashion diagnosis to see what is happening when it doesn't want to start.

 

I deserved the beat down. Sorry.

 

I always jump right to suspecting the crankshaft position sensor when I see these posts because this is exactly what I experienced when mine went. Doesn't mean this is the case here.

Does your check engine light come on or does everything electrical completely shut down?

Another member had a simple test for checking the CPS (at a time the engine will not start) - remove a spark plug and with it still connected to the wire have a friend turn the key. If there is no spark it could be the sensor.

 

You know it's not a bad idea to replace the crank position sensor in any case. I've heard it should be done about every two years or so just incase. This time of year, they do seem to go a little more often due to high under-hood temps. It's a cheap sensor and critical to keep your DII reliable. It's cheap enough that if it doesn't turn out to be that at least you KNOW it's not that and you can move on to further diagnoses. These often go bad without ever triggering the check engine light also. Good Luck!

 

Thanks to those who replied- all have been helpful in getting some direction with this issue- couple of things:

-I have had NO codes- so no help there.
-All electrics continue to function when engine dies. (no PS or PB )
-Since the episode noted, it has started with no problems- didn't drive anywhere, let it idle for about 20 minutes with no symptoms.
-I found a few other posts on the crankshaft sensor too- this sounds like a definite possibility. I might replace it anyway as suggested.

Question: My LR manual lists as the last item when replacing the CKP to "Reset adaptions using TestBook." Is this really necessary?

If I can reproduce the problem I plan to 1) listen for the fuel pump, and 2) check for spark. (Hose CKP down to cool if water available) Any other suggestions?

Thanks again,
Doug

 

could be cps or simply a bad ground. remove both wire terminals from your battery, clean them real good (I would clip them to insure fresh connections), then reconnect and see if that helps any. cheap and easy, worth a shot.

 

D2's have much more electronics than a D1. In addition to being sure battery is in tip top shape, and terminals on battery are scrubbed clean, while they are off - inspect the underhood fuse box. Sometimes oxidation forms on the largest conductors bolted down in there, they can be un-bolted and wire brushed as well. 1/2 a volt here, a 1/4 volt there, these voltage drops all add up and cause "gremlins". Another often ignored connection is the frame ground from the negative side of the battery, located usually on the frame below the battery and radiator. Right where road spray can work on it sight unseen.

But all of these won't cure a "dirty" CPS. I say "dirty", because most people have heard the static when adjusting a volume control that is noisy. The ECU gets the same thing from a "bad" sensor, and decides that it will just pout until some one takes the vehicle to the home of posh sheetmetal for some overdue pampering.

 

Does someone have an answer to this question- do you need TestBook when replacing the crank position sensor?
Thanks!!