Engine Knock When Warm
#11
Hello All...
I have an 03 Disco II that just turned 65k miles, similar if not the same exact problem...
In the morning start it up and its quiet, gets up to running temp and sounds like a diesel clacking away like there is a couple midgets inside the motor on the drivers side beating the inside out with hammers....
The sound sometimes is louder at times than others, if I have been driving it a significant distance and hit a red light sometimes its quiet....almost nonexistent...
I thought it was the oil pump as my VIN is within the bad oil pump range..spent a ton replacing it...still ticking/knocking...
My question is this....other than the embarrassment of the noise...is there any long term issues with driving the truck when its doing this??
After the oil pump replacement I don't have the funds to dive into this right now...but I need to drive it...
Any suggestions?
I have an 03 Disco II that just turned 65k miles, similar if not the same exact problem...
In the morning start it up and its quiet, gets up to running temp and sounds like a diesel clacking away like there is a couple midgets inside the motor on the drivers side beating the inside out with hammers....
The sound sometimes is louder at times than others, if I have been driving it a significant distance and hit a red light sometimes its quiet....almost nonexistent...
I thought it was the oil pump as my VIN is within the bad oil pump range..spent a ton replacing it...still ticking/knocking...
My question is this....other than the embarrassment of the noise...is there any long term issues with driving the truck when its doing this??
After the oil pump replacement I don't have the funds to dive into this right now...but I need to drive it...
Any suggestions?
#12
rycymru1 posted vids of a bad engine on his Youtube account.
Land Rover 4.6 V8 - YouTube
This is as bad as it gets - it was loud, but also low on compression on one pot which made the sound worse.
Land rover slipped liner cut up the head gasket - YouTube
And this is the worse that seems to happen - it will eventually cut through the head gasket firing ring, and that slither will either take the preffered option of heading out of the exhaust, or the less preffered option of scuffing the cylinder. IIRC, he had 20K+ after the ticking started before it did this.
For your situation, It's not going to suddenly die - but I don't see any reason to not use the vehicle.
I put approx 10K on mine before I bought a new block and rebuilt all my old parts into it.
Others have reported the "tickers" as still functioning for many tens of thousands of miles...
As Mike keeps suggestiong though - It is worth doing an oil pressure test to verify that this is not oil pressure related. Harbor freight sells a kit with all the adaptors needed.
Land Rover 4.6 V8 - YouTube
This is as bad as it gets - it was loud, but also low on compression on one pot which made the sound worse.
Land rover slipped liner cut up the head gasket - YouTube
And this is the worse that seems to happen - it will eventually cut through the head gasket firing ring, and that slither will either take the preffered option of heading out of the exhaust, or the less preffered option of scuffing the cylinder. IIRC, he had 20K+ after the ticking started before it did this.
For your situation, It's not going to suddenly die - but I don't see any reason to not use the vehicle.
I put approx 10K on mine before I bought a new block and rebuilt all my old parts into it.
Others have reported the "tickers" as still functioning for many tens of thousands of miles...
As Mike keeps suggestiong though - It is worth doing an oil pressure test to verify that this is not oil pressure related. Harbor freight sells a kit with all the adaptors needed.
Last edited by turbodave; 04-02-2012 at 09:32 AM.
#13
Take a look at this post:
100% Proof that liners are moving at 'normal' operating temps & causing the tapping! - DiscoWeb Message Boards
And study the youtube vids at the bottom. As easily as a piston slides in a bore on it's own, the liner slides in the block just as, if not more easily when the block is at operating temperature...
The liner can't move lower than the lip at the bottom for sure, but some genius at Rover decided to put a taper, leaving a sharp lip at the top of the liner. This exerts such a small contact area (ie a high contact pressure) that it is inevitable - as/when the interference fit can't hold the liner in place - that it will start to make a small indent in the firing ring. After that, the liner can then move more, and has greater inertia to make a deeper indent - eventually it is plenty deep enough for it to make a nice tapping sound, deep in the engine.
I also rebuilt my engine with a new block - everything else from the heads, timing chain, cam, followers, pistons, was the same. I also have a quiet engine now!
100% Proof that liners are moving at 'normal' operating temps & causing the tapping! - DiscoWeb Message Boards
And study the youtube vids at the bottom. As easily as a piston slides in a bore on it's own, the liner slides in the block just as, if not more easily when the block is at operating temperature...
The liner can't move lower than the lip at the bottom for sure, but some genius at Rover decided to put a taper, leaving a sharp lip at the top of the liner. This exerts such a small contact area (ie a high contact pressure) that it is inevitable - as/when the interference fit can't hold the liner in place - that it will start to make a small indent in the firing ring. After that, the liner can then move more, and has greater inertia to make a deeper indent - eventually it is plenty deep enough for it to make a nice tapping sound, deep in the engine.
I also rebuilt my engine with a new block - everything else from the heads, timing chain, cam, followers, pistons, was the same. I also have a quiet engine now!
#14
However if Im doing lots of in town traffic driving and the motor is good and warm, she will get loud and I'll put up the windows, crank the a/c and radio and act like nothings wrong when others are looking at my time bomb at a red light...lol
In essence the warmer the motor the worse the sound...
I can deal with the embarrassment for a few weeks until I have the money to fix it...I just wanted to make sure I wasn't hurting it anymore than I needed too. I have another SUV I can drive so this is not a must have transportation vehicle.
What year block should I be looking for?....I have access to vehicle parts and if I can find a used block pretty easily and send it to a machine shop to get it ready....
Please Advise..
#15
Ummm, if the oil light was on, I'd be more concerned with the condition of my big-ends / mains...
I'm not saying it isn't the liners, but that is a big red flag...
Regardless - you can use a block from any year D1 or D2 - all you need to do is fit the later crank sensor housing into the block and have it welded into place (if you get a pre-bosch block)...
Last edited by turbodave; 04-03-2012 at 04:48 PM.
#16
Ummm, if the oil light was on, I'd be more concerned with the condition of my big-ends / mains...
I'm not saying it isn't the liners, but that is a big red flag...
Regardless - you can use a block from any year D1 or D2 - all you need to do is fit the later crank sensor housing into the block and have it welded into place (if you get a pre-bosch block)...
I'm not saying it isn't the liners, but that is a big red flag...
Regardless - you can use a block from any year D1 or D2 - all you need to do is fit the later crank sensor housing into the block and have it welded into place (if you get a pre-bosch block)...
Here is what I don't understand...my ticking sounds EXACTLY like the video...but why does the ticking go away when I accelerate?
Will a complete motor from say an 02 (4.0L) replace my 03 (4.6L)? I'm going off the simple assumption that since I can use a 4.0L block the rest is similar enough to simply do a motor swap?
Thanks...
#17
I am not a practicing mechanic, I'm just an engineer - so I'm not sure how valid my thoughts are, but (in the case of loose liners) the likely reason it quietens down (IMO) is due to the inherent drag between the piston rings and liner, the mass of the liner, and the velocity of the piston... Basically at lower piston speeds, the friction between the rings and liner is sufficiently slow to lift and lower the liner between TDC and BDC. The liner has a mass which for it to move means it has to be accelerated from rest - the mass is constant of course. At higher piston speeds, there is insufficient time to accelerate the liner mass before the piston has reached the end of travel and is reversing direction. This means the liner might still be moving, but instead of hitting the firing ring, or lip at the bottom, is 'floating' between these stops. As piston speed increases further, and the time to move the piston is reduced further, the liner probably stops moving all together.
If anyone has a different persepctive, then share it by all means. :-)
If anyone has a different persepctive, then share it by all means. :-)
Last edited by turbodave; 04-04-2012 at 07:01 AM.
#18