Engine Knocking after Oil Change
Next time I definitely will. I was thinking of buying a shop manual so i could do DiscoMike's list (or some of it anyway). I have a metric wrench/ratchet set and screwdrivers, etc. Any special tools required to change oil, transfer case fluid, tranny fluid, etc? Also, should I have the oil changed every 3 or 5k miles? 'cause I've read both. I figured you know what you're talkin about and you must be doin somethin right since your disco has made it to see so many miles 
. Is it the original engine?
. Is it the original engine?
Last edited by Take THAT, Jeep!; Jun 3, 2011 at 11:07 PM.
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 86
From: St Louis MO
You can get the factory manual for free here: land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte . I came really close to commenting that you would be best to start changing your own oil, as it will save you money in the long fun, and get you more in touch with your vehicle. The only initial expense being a drain pan (if you're medioum build or smaller you don't even need ramps to change the oil). These vehicles have a combination of standard and metric fasteners (standard mainly on the engine, if I remember correctly). Your wrench/ratchet set is a good start, and you can buy tools as the need arises. My basic philosophy with tools is: If I need something I don't have, I will buy it (unless it's something crazy expensive (ABS amigo in mind in my case) because I will probably need it again at some point in the future. If it is too expensive to buy, I can probably borrow one from a friend, or rent it from an auto parts store.
You can get the factory manual for free here: land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte . I came really close to commenting that you would be best to start changing your own oil, as it will save you money in the long fun, and get you more in touch with your vehicle. The only initial expense being a drain pan (if you're medioum build or smaller you don't even need ramps to change the oil). These vehicles have a combination of standard and metric fasteners (standard mainly on the engine, if I remember correctly). Your wrench/ratchet set is a good start, and you can buy tools as the need arises. My basic philosophy with tools is: If I need something I don't have, I will buy it (unless it's something crazy expensive (ABS amigo in mind in my case) because I will probably need it again at some point in the future. If it is too expensive to buy, I can probably borrow one from a friend, or rent it from an auto parts store.
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 86
From: St Louis MO
Just the basic oil change is where I started 19 years ago (under the supervision of my father), and just through doing things (albeit quite a few accidents I have learned from) I am now willing to do close to anything mechanical, except for welding - which I've only done once and quite sucked at it 
Download the RAVE manual, read through it, crawl under, inside, and all over your vehicle and see what does what. The first thing I did on my Landy was replace the engine. I had printed out the procedures, compared the pictures with what was under the hood, and essentially memorised the procedure. The replacement went without a hitch.
to quote something from my childhood: Knowledge is Power!
Download the RAVE manual, read through it, crawl under, inside, and all over your vehicle and see what does what. The first thing I did on my Landy was replace the engine. I had printed out the procedures, compared the pictures with what was under the hood, and essentially memorised the procedure. The replacement went without a hitch.
to quote something from my childhood: Knowledge is Power!
Next time I definitely will. I was thinking of buying a shop manual so i could do DiscoMike's list (or some of it anyway). I have a metric wrench/ratchet set and screwdrivers, etc. Any special tools required to change oil, transfer case fluid, tranny fluid, etc? Also, should I have the oil changed every 3 or 5k miles? 'cause I've read both. I figured you know what you're talkin about and you must be doin somethin right since your disco has made it to see so many miles . Is it the original engine?
. Is it the original engine?Then take your truck to your mechanic friend and have him show you what to do.
It is real easy, but just so you can see everything he does, like oil the gasket on the new filter, which drain plug it is...
If you use a conventional motor oil you need to change it every 3,000 miles.
If you use a heavy duty motor oil (like 15w-40) or a full synthetic motor oil (like Mobil 1) then change it every 5,000 miles.
Now here is one of the beauties of Rotella, it is half the price of Mobil 1 but just as good.
Next oil change go buy the stuff you will need, that is a NAPA Gold oil filter and 6 qts of oil.
Then take your truck to your mechanic friend and have him show you what to do.
It is real easy, but just so you can see everything he does, like oil the gasket on the new filter, which drain plug it is...
If you use a conventional motor oil you need to change it every 3,000 miles.
If you use a heavy duty motor oil (like 15w-40) or a full synthetic motor oil (like Mobil 1) then change it every 5,000 miles.
Now here is one of the beauties of Rotella, it is half the price of Mobil 1 but just as good.
Then take your truck to your mechanic friend and have him show you what to do.
It is real easy, but just so you can see everything he does, like oil the gasket on the new filter, which drain plug it is...
If you use a conventional motor oil you need to change it every 3,000 miles.
If you use a heavy duty motor oil (like 15w-40) or a full synthetic motor oil (like Mobil 1) then change it every 5,000 miles.
Now here is one of the beauties of Rotella, it is half the price of Mobil 1 but just as good.
Just the basic oil change is where I started 19 years ago (under the supervision of my father), and just through doing things (albeit quite a few accidents I have learned from) I am now willing to do close to anything mechanical, except for welding - which I've only done once and quite sucked at it
Download the RAVE manual, read through it, crawl under, inside, and all over your vehicle and see what does what. The first thing I did on my Landy was replace the engine. I had printed out the procedures, compared the pictures with what was under the hood, and essentially memorised the procedure. The replacement went without a hitch.
to quote something from my childhood: Knowledge is Power!
Download the RAVE manual, read through it, crawl under, inside, and all over your vehicle and see what does what. The first thing I did on my Landy was replace the engine. I had printed out the procedures, compared the pictures with what was under the hood, and essentially memorised the procedure. The replacement went without a hitch.
to quote something from my childhood: Knowledge is Power!
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 86
From: St Louis MO
I bought it with a *BAD engine. (cheap)
*BAD is defined as connecting rod breaking loose from piston and being shoved through the center of the block, splitting the camshaft, dropping lifters and pushrods into the oil pan, and ejecting the last 3 camshaft lobes out the rear of the block wedging against the flywheel.
