Engine Knocking after Oil Change
Pro Wrench
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 44
From: Philly
I bought it with a *BAD engine. (cheap)
*BAD is defined as connecting rod breaking loose from piston and being shoved through the center of the block, splitting the camshaft, dropping lifters and pushrods into the oil pan, and ejecting the last 3 camshaft lobes out the rear of the block wedging against the flywheel.
*BAD is defined as connecting rod breaking loose from piston and being shoved through the center of the block, splitting the camshaft, dropping lifters and pushrods into the oil pan, and ejecting the last 3 camshaft lobes out the rear of the block wedging against the flywheel.
I bought it with a *BAD engine. (cheap)
*BAD is defined as connecting rod breaking loose from piston and being shoved through the center of the block, splitting the camshaft, dropping lifters and pushrods into the oil pan, and ejecting the last 3 camshaft lobes out the rear of the block wedging against the flywheel.
*BAD is defined as connecting rod breaking loose from piston and being shoved through the center of the block, splitting the camshaft, dropping lifters and pushrods into the oil pan, and ejecting the last 3 camshaft lobes out the rear of the block wedging against the flywheel.
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 86
From: St Louis MO
Actually, it was making a lot more noise than yours when I went and looked at it. I knew it was going to need an engine, but the price made it worth while. I had it towed home. The engine didn't self destruct until I cranked it one last time once it was here.
Winching
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 685
Likes: 41
Hey guys, mind if I join in? See my towing thread for my first mention of the ticking.. but I also just noticed my truck doing this a little while ago.
I swear mine is load-dependent, but it might just be when I drive near concrete barriers / walls / etc when the sound bounced back through my window. When I pop the hood and rev it at the TB, I can't seem to hear it. It's a tapping/clicking lifter-like sound, not a knocking however.
I added some oil and it went away, so I know it's oil related (like you) but I'm not sure why. I should be able to be 1/2 qt low (still within the low/full range on dipstick) without hearing that kinda friction-related noise from the engine.
I think the climate here is just harsh, as was my towing (probably 3500lbs, which isn't that much but doesn't help with it's in the 90s out). I'm also 3450 miles on a semi-synthetic oil, which again isn't TOO much, but it might have broken down a bit. Change is at 3500, so time for something new. FWIW I was using the higher-end FRAM oil filter (can't remember which.. the most expensive of the 3 lines they offer) with Valvoline Max-Life Semi-Syn 10-40.
I'm thinking about the Mobil 1 15-50 and Mobil 1 filter, but I've had BAD experiences with that oil when they first switched it over to the gold cap extended performance a few years ago (low oil pressure light at idle in BMW M3, sheered out to near-water.. which should never happen with a 15-50!!!!) They've since redesigned it again however, so I might give it a shot.
I'll keep you all updated!
OH PS. Am I the ONLY person in here who has actually looked at the oil specs page in the manual?! It doesn't state a specific weight of oil, it gives you a table of operating temperature min/max limits and suggests an appropriate oil based on your climate! 10-40 is fine (and listed) .. now, my 15-50 is another story lol.
I swear mine is load-dependent, but it might just be when I drive near concrete barriers / walls / etc when the sound bounced back through my window. When I pop the hood and rev it at the TB, I can't seem to hear it. It's a tapping/clicking lifter-like sound, not a knocking however.
I added some oil and it went away, so I know it's oil related (like you) but I'm not sure why. I should be able to be 1/2 qt low (still within the low/full range on dipstick) without hearing that kinda friction-related noise from the engine.
I think the climate here is just harsh, as was my towing (probably 3500lbs, which isn't that much but doesn't help with it's in the 90s out). I'm also 3450 miles on a semi-synthetic oil, which again isn't TOO much, but it might have broken down a bit. Change is at 3500, so time for something new. FWIW I was using the higher-end FRAM oil filter (can't remember which.. the most expensive of the 3 lines they offer) with Valvoline Max-Life Semi-Syn 10-40.
I'm thinking about the Mobil 1 15-50 and Mobil 1 filter, but I've had BAD experiences with that oil when they first switched it over to the gold cap extended performance a few years ago (low oil pressure light at idle in BMW M3, sheered out to near-water.. which should never happen with a 15-50!!!!) They've since redesigned it again however, so I might give it a shot.
I'll keep you all updated!
OH PS. Am I the ONLY person in here who has actually looked at the oil specs page in the manual?! It doesn't state a specific weight of oil, it gives you a table of operating temperature min/max limits and suggests an appropriate oil based on your climate! 10-40 is fine (and listed) .. now, my 15-50 is another story lol.
Last edited by EstorilM; Jun 4, 2011 at 11:24 PM.
OH PS. Am I the ONLY person in here who has actually looked at the oil specs page in the manual?! It doesn't state a specific weight of oil, it gives you a table of operating temperature min/max limits and suggests an appropriate oil based on your climate! 10-40 is fine (and listed) .. now, my 15-50 is another story lol.
I also used the Mobil 1 15w-50, until I could no longer buy it, however I never had any problems with it.
Thats another nice thing about Rotella, it can be had anywhere.
Winching
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 685
Likes: 41
Yup I do remember seeing it at Walmart which is nice, way cheaper. If they actually had the M1 for a comparable price would you buy it instead?
lol I bet it was! Somebody musta really abused that thing or run it with no oil for that to happen.
Hey guys, mind if I join in? See my towing thread for my first mention of the ticking.. but I also just noticed my truck doing this a little while ago.
I swear mine is load-dependent, but it might just be when I drive near concrete barriers / walls / etc when the sound bounced back through my window. When I pop the hood and rev it at the TB, I can't seem to hear it. It's a tapping/clicking lifter-like sound, not a knocking however.
I added some oil and it went away, so I know it's oil related (like you) but I'm not sure why. I should be able to be 1/2 qt low (still within the low/full range on dipstick) without hearing that kinda friction-related noise from the engine.
I think the climate here is just harsh, as was my towing (probably 3500lbs, which isn't that much but doesn't help with it's in the 90s out). I'm also 3450 miles on a semi-synthetic oil, which again isn't TOO much, but it might have broken down a bit. Change is at 3500, so time for something new. FWIW I was using the higher-end FRAM oil filter (can't remember which.. the most expensive of the 3 lines they offer) with Valvoline Max-Life Semi-Syn 10-40.
I'm thinking about the Mobil 1 15-50 and Mobil 1 filter, but I've had BAD experiences with that oil when they first switched it over to the gold cap extended performance a few years ago (low oil pressure light at idle in BMW M3, sheered out to near-water.. which should never happen with a 15-50!!!!) They've since redesigned it again however, so I might give it a shot.
I'll keep you all updated!
OH PS. Am I the ONLY person in here who has actually looked at the oil specs page in the manual?! It doesn't state a specific weight of oil, it gives you a table of operating temperature min/max limits and suggests an appropriate oil based on your climate! 10-40 is fine (and listed) .. now, my 15-50 is another story lol.
I swear mine is load-dependent, but it might just be when I drive near concrete barriers / walls / etc when the sound bounced back through my window. When I pop the hood and rev it at the TB, I can't seem to hear it. It's a tapping/clicking lifter-like sound, not a knocking however.
I added some oil and it went away, so I know it's oil related (like you) but I'm not sure why. I should be able to be 1/2 qt low (still within the low/full range on dipstick) without hearing that kinda friction-related noise from the engine.
I think the climate here is just harsh, as was my towing (probably 3500lbs, which isn't that much but doesn't help with it's in the 90s out). I'm also 3450 miles on a semi-synthetic oil, which again isn't TOO much, but it might have broken down a bit. Change is at 3500, so time for something new. FWIW I was using the higher-end FRAM oil filter (can't remember which.. the most expensive of the 3 lines they offer) with Valvoline Max-Life Semi-Syn 10-40.
I'm thinking about the Mobil 1 15-50 and Mobil 1 filter, but I've had BAD experiences with that oil when they first switched it over to the gold cap extended performance a few years ago (low oil pressure light at idle in BMW M3, sheered out to near-water.. which should never happen with a 15-50!!!!) They've since redesigned it again however, so I might give it a shot.
I'll keep you all updated!
OH PS. Am I the ONLY person in here who has actually looked at the oil specs page in the manual?! It doesn't state a specific weight of oil, it gives you a table of operating temperature min/max limits and suggests an appropriate oil based on your climate! 10-40 is fine (and listed) .. now, my 15-50 is another story lol.
No I would not.
The engine in my work van blew up at 165,000 miles, Mobil 1 from the factory (Mercedes Sprinter with a TD5) and the oil changed every 10,000 miles at the dealer, a full 5,000 miles sooner than what MB said.
Engine blew up, $12,000 for a new engine.
I will never ever never use Mobil 1 or any other full "synthetic" motor oil, ever.
I used to deliver FEMA trailers, the guys who delivered travel trailers for a living used Rotella in there trucks, 100,000+ miles a year with zero oil problems in their 3/4 and 1 ton pickups.
When I drove cement truck, we changed the oil once a year no matter what, Rotella 15w-40. And in case you dont know, a cement truck is about as hard on oil as you are going to get, the radiator is in the back so they run hot, you run them at full throttle while getting loaded, moving 80,000lbs down the road in 95+ temps the engines always ran right around 220*F, big hills the temp would climb to 250.
These engines run 8-12 hrs a day 5-6 days a week.
Rotella was also used as the hydraulic fluid in the trucks.
When I drove semi we changed the oil every 20,000 miles or so.
It is very very good sh!it!!
The engine in my work van blew up at 165,000 miles, Mobil 1 from the factory (Mercedes Sprinter with a TD5) and the oil changed every 10,000 miles at the dealer, a full 5,000 miles sooner than what MB said.
Engine blew up, $12,000 for a new engine.
I will never ever never use Mobil 1 or any other full "synthetic" motor oil, ever.
I used to deliver FEMA trailers, the guys who delivered travel trailers for a living used Rotella in there trucks, 100,000+ miles a year with zero oil problems in their 3/4 and 1 ton pickups.
When I drove cement truck, we changed the oil once a year no matter what, Rotella 15w-40. And in case you dont know, a cement truck is about as hard on oil as you are going to get, the radiator is in the back so they run hot, you run them at full throttle while getting loaded, moving 80,000lbs down the road in 95+ temps the engines always ran right around 220*F, big hills the temp would climb to 250.
These engines run 8-12 hrs a day 5-6 days a week.
Rotella was also used as the hydraulic fluid in the trucks.
When I drove semi we changed the oil every 20,000 miles or so.
It is very very good sh!it!!
