Engine rebuild... my turn to have fun!!
#43
08-14-2010, 03:32 PM
94 degrees, humid, no breeze. But I got the heads on. That final 90 degrees was fun, but the real PITA is those rear bolts! Especially the one on the drivers side!! I used teflon tape on the threads and ran the long bolts (1,3,5) down another 45 degrees. I'm ready to put on the exhaust manifold and intake but it seems a severe thunderstorm has forced me to take a break. Gives me a chance to look thru the Rave manual and print some pages to take out with me. 
Eric
Eric
#44
08-14-2010, 06:19 PM
your a wild man...
94 degrees, humid, no breeze. But I got the heads on. That final 90 degrees was fun, but the real PITA is those rear bolts! Especially the one on the drivers side!! I used teflon tape on the threads and ran the long bolts (1,3,5) down another 45 degrees. I'm ready to put on the exhaust manifold and intake but it seems a severe thunderstorm has forced me to take a break. Gives me a chance to look thru the Rave manual and print some pages to take out with me.
Eric
Eric
Your a wild man eric.....so the teflon wasnt a big deal was it? I pulled my block today..without a engine lift.... yea like a real hillbilly....not a big deal really...a couple hours....
#46
08-14-2010, 08:14 PM
Not that I could tell. It's been awhile since I did a head gasket on any vehicle so not sure what "normal" feel like
No, it was a basket case. Most of the top end was in a box in the cargo area. PO says it was running when it overheated. I'm taking a big chance here. For all I know, I could start this thing up tomorrow and it could be ready to throw a rod.
Update:
Valley pan, lower intake and exhaust manifolds are on. First thing I'm gonna do tomorrow is run a compression check.
Two questions as I'm putting this back together:
1) What is compression supposed to be? (125? 150?)
2) How do I get the fuel line hooked up to the rail? Squeeze the tabs and push? I'm getting resistance on it and don't want to risk breaking it!
Eric
No, it was a basket case. Most of the top end was in a box in the cargo area. PO says it was running when it overheated. I'm taking a big chance here. For all I know, I could start this thing up tomorrow and it could be ready to throw a rod.
Update:
Valley pan, lower intake and exhaust manifolds are on. First thing I'm gonna do tomorrow is run a compression check.
Two questions as I'm putting this back together:
1) What is compression supposed to be? (125? 150?)
2) How do I get the fuel line hooked up to the rail? Squeeze the tabs and push? I'm getting resistance on it and don't want to risk breaking it!
Eric
#48
08-21-2010, 09:59 PM
Success!!! 
got it running tonight! Ran it for 30 minutes, temp gauge right in the middle. Only leak I found is at the hose going into the heater core. I'll tighten that up tomorrow. Still have a few more pieces to put back on but glad it runs great. No smoke coming out the tail pipe, no weird noises.... however the 3 amigos were there to welcome me to Disco 2 ownership 
I think the hardest part of putting everything back together was the #*^%$ coil pack!! I put on Kingsborn 8mm wires and Bosch platinum plugs. Time will tell if I made a dumb decision using teflon tape on the head bolts and taking the three long bolts down another 45 degrees. But for now, she is purring like a kitten. Going to change the oil tomorrow and go for a test drive 
Eric
got it running tonight! Ran it for 30 minutes, temp gauge right in the middle. Only leak I found is at the hose going into the heater core. I'll tighten that up tomorrow. Still have a few more pieces to put back on but glad it runs great. No smoke coming out the tail pipe, no weird noises.... however the 3 amigos were there to welcome me to Disco 2 ownership I think the hardest part of putting everything back together was the #*^%$ coil pack!! I put on Kingsborn 8mm wires and Bosch platinum plugs. Time will tell if I made a dumb decision using teflon tape on the head bolts and taking the three long bolts down another 45 degrees. But for now, she is purring like a kitten. Going to change the oil tomorrow and go for a test drive Eric
#49
08-22-2010, 06:39 AM
sounds great..
Good for you...glad you have it running now. I was reading another forum yesterday about craked liners as robinson wa chiming in and this is what a guy posted...seems to address the theroy of ol on the bolts....thought you might want to read it....
"Hi all very interesting thread and here is some information given to me over the years by some good mechanics and engineers and it is that you should never use oil to lubricate a closed thread eg:cylinder head bolts.
The reason was that if you apply to much oil and it runs down through the threads and gathers in the bottom (which it will) and then insert the bolt and tighten you are in effect in the world of Hydraulics and the pressures would greatly increase.
So could it be possible that during the machining process some cutting compounds/very light machining oil has gathered in the areas where the cylinder head bolts would go,thus creating a weak point in the block and over time it eventually cracks."
"Hi all very interesting thread and here is some information given to me over the years by some good mechanics and engineers and it is that you should never use oil to lubricate a closed thread eg:cylinder head bolts.
The reason was that if you apply to much oil and it runs down through the threads and gathers in the bottom (which it will) and then insert the bolt and tighten you are in effect in the world of Hydraulics and the pressures would greatly increase.
So could it be possible that during the machining process some cutting compounds/very light machining oil has gathered in the areas where the cylinder head bolts would go,thus creating a weak point in the block and over time it eventually cracks."
#50
08-22-2010, 10:12 PM
Good for you...glad you have it running now. I was reading another forum yesterday about craked liners as robinson wa chiming in and this is what a guy posted...seems to address the theroy of ol on the bolts....thought you might want to read it....
"Hi all very interesting thread and here is some information given to me over the years by some good mechanics and engineers and it is that you should never use oil to lubricate a closed thread eg:cylinder head bolts.
The reason was that if you apply to much oil and it runs down through the threads and gathers in the bottom (which it will) and then insert the bolt and tighten you are in effect in the world of Hydraulics and the pressures would greatly increase.
So could it be possible that during the machining process some cutting compounds/very light machining oil has gathered in the areas where the cylinder head bolts would go,thus creating a weak point in the block and over time it eventually cracks."
"Hi all very interesting thread and here is some information given to me over the years by some good mechanics and engineers and it is that you should never use oil to lubricate a closed thread eg:cylinder head bolts.
The reason was that if you apply to much oil and it runs down through the threads and gathers in the bottom (which it will) and then insert the bolt and tighten you are in effect in the world of Hydraulics and the pressures would greatly increase.
So could it be possible that during the machining process some cutting compounds/very light machining oil has gathered in the areas where the cylinder head bolts would go,thus creating a weak point in the block and over time it eventually cracks."
I really don't think it's a bad idea to use teflon tape.... just wish I had read more "success" stories about it. But I'm a gambling man so what the heck
Didn't get to take it out for a spin today. Seems the bleeder screw on the hose keeps leaking. I'm ordering the updated hose from AB tomorrow along with the pcv/valve cover hoses that are missing. Throwing in a bottle of water wetter for good measure.
There seems to be an issue with the factory radio but I'll worry about that after I know it's driveable.
Eric