Its coming from Lawrenceville, Georgia and its a used Range Rover 4.6 GEMS motor not Bosch.

 

Pulling the 4.6 is nearly identical to pulling the 4.0. Not much to it really, pull the hood a drain all of the fluid from the engine. Remove the exhaust from the manifold and let them rest on the cross member. Unbolt the engine from the mounts and lift up the engine to fully remove the mounts. You'll need to do this to gain access to the top transmission bell housing bolts. Now you can remove all of the transmission bolts. All you should have left at this point is little odds and ends like hoses and electrical connectors. You can leave the radiator in place if you pull the fan of the hub. It took me 6hrs to swap my engine without a lift.

good luck

 

silviacon, need to rewind a bit, "without a lift"? How? I understand now the unbolting process like mentioned earlier, but I ordered a hoist already. I want to take the entire engine out not in pieces. LOL!!

 

Make sure you get a 2 ton hoist. The 1-ton hoist arm is not long enough.

No clue what silvia is talking about -- unless you're hulk hogan you'll want to have a lift.
Get a hoist leveler as well. Real pain in the *** to get the engine rearwards enough to meet the bellhousing

Basically follow rave, pull the radiator, and prepare yourself for a weekend of frustration

 

Thanks Jeff Blake,
Im putting back the engine together with new heads while waiting for the replacement engine by freight. Meanwhile, I need to move some cars out the driveway and make room for the project and turn the truck the other way around for more access. It might take me a while coz the engine is from a p38 Range Rover Gems.

 

I only said you can do it without a lift. You will obviously need a engine hoist, I used chains for my swap.

 

He's talking about a lift to raise the entire truck, for working underneath it to disconnect exhaust, etc.

 

help I need to get my motor out, I hope I have a day to do it and only without help. what is the most frustrating part

 

I just pulled my engine last week.

Most frustrating part are the 4 bolts at the 2:00, 3:00, 11:00 and 10:00 position that connect the transmission to the engine.

Tip: remove the bumper. This way you have direct visual to the flywheel/torque converter bolts. Well worth the time of having to put it back on.

Also, remove the SAI air filter and it's bracket with it's sharp corners. You don't need to remove it but your left forearm will thank you.

Remove the black intake manifold pcv host to valve cover before your remove the upper intake manifold. (very easily broken if you don't remove it, again....only a minute to remove but an issue if you break it off in the manifold)

Removing the exhaust manifolds before the SAI tubes makes that job a lot easier.

Drain the coolant with the lower 11mm bolt holding on the water pump to make less of a mess.

Needed tools: (other than your basic tool set)

18mm wrench for the engine mounts and SAI inner pipe
12mm 12 point socket for exhaust manifold bolts
Lot's of long extensions and a universal joint for the transmission bolts and the flywheel/torque converter
24mm socket and breaker bar to turn the engine to be able to take out each flywheel/torque converter bolt

 

Tip: Remove motor mounts, lower engine to reach the top transmission bolts from the top (after removing upper intake).