Engine Replacement Questions
Hi folks; this is my first big post and I have searched the forums but not found an answer.
I have a 2000 LR Disco II that I bought new in 1999 and that has been sitting in my garage with a severe engine problem since 2006. Essentially, the engine overheated in a big way while my ex wife, who thinks engines run on magic, kept driving until either the head gasket or block gave up. She demanded a new car, which she sold after divorcing me to finance a move to the Virgin Islands. Now, I know there may be a way to fix it but I have a few cars, it was paid off, and I never got around to it. Recently, I decided to get a replacement engine so I could upgrade the original (if it is still fixable, which I do not know yet). The replacement is the exact same engine (4 liter... same year model). I removed the old engine, did my diligence and replaced everything conceivable on the newer engine (main seal, timing chain, water pump, oil pan gasket, etc...), had the new one tested for compression (all good), and am now ready to put the new engine in. I put it in the engine compartment today.
I am not a mechanic. I just try to figure things out. I am using the official manual, which I printed.
I was hoping not to remove the crossmember under the transmission and jack up the frame. I have a few great tools, but I don't have two or three of everything and I've stretched my resources for this project to the limit. I have the engine in place, on the crane, and the torque converter is about halfway into the bell housing. I have used every combination of strap and chain that I can find to line everything up perfectly, but I cannot muscle the engine and transmission back together. The spline gear is clearly in the torque converter because I can see it lined up on all sides, and when I move the engine, it also moves the transmission even though the bell housing is not connected to the engine.
In the middle of the project, a couple of weeks ago, a friend of mine asked me why I didn't take the engine and transmission our together, since it would be difficult to line up the teeth of the spline. Prophetic. I simply pointed at the manual and shrugged, happy that I was following instructions.
However, maybe he was right; I cannot get them together. I am not helped by the fact that I am at the absolute end of my crane (in other words, pushing the two pieces together works against gravity for the last four inches or so because my crane is against the front bumper, happily scratching it with every shove). I have tried caveman blocks, levers, and straps to get everything lined up and moved forward, and used every one of my 132 pounds to shove the several hundred pound engine, to no avail. Thank God it started raining tonight before I passed out from the effort.
I did try rotating the main pulley a few times, just a hair each time, but still no joy. I have raised and lowered the transmission and engine, tilted them, etc. I am sure that the end of the spline is in the torque converter.
So, can someone tell me what the trick is to put the engine and transmission back together? The manual is silent. It took some serious muscle to get them apart, and that was helped by my slightly short crane. I'm now wondering if I can get them together at all.
Any ideas or suggestions on how to mate the engine with the transmission other than "why would you do this by yourself, you idiot" would be warmly received.
Best,
Charlie V
I have a 2000 LR Disco II that I bought new in 1999 and that has been sitting in my garage with a severe engine problem since 2006. Essentially, the engine overheated in a big way while my ex wife, who thinks engines run on magic, kept driving until either the head gasket or block gave up. She demanded a new car, which she sold after divorcing me to finance a move to the Virgin Islands. Now, I know there may be a way to fix it but I have a few cars, it was paid off, and I never got around to it. Recently, I decided to get a replacement engine so I could upgrade the original (if it is still fixable, which I do not know yet). The replacement is the exact same engine (4 liter... same year model). I removed the old engine, did my diligence and replaced everything conceivable on the newer engine (main seal, timing chain, water pump, oil pan gasket, etc...), had the new one tested for compression (all good), and am now ready to put the new engine in. I put it in the engine compartment today.
I am not a mechanic. I just try to figure things out. I am using the official manual, which I printed.
I was hoping not to remove the crossmember under the transmission and jack up the frame. I have a few great tools, but I don't have two or three of everything and I've stretched my resources for this project to the limit. I have the engine in place, on the crane, and the torque converter is about halfway into the bell housing. I have used every combination of strap and chain that I can find to line everything up perfectly, but I cannot muscle the engine and transmission back together. The spline gear is clearly in the torque converter because I can see it lined up on all sides, and when I move the engine, it also moves the transmission even though the bell housing is not connected to the engine.
In the middle of the project, a couple of weeks ago, a friend of mine asked me why I didn't take the engine and transmission our together, since it would be difficult to line up the teeth of the spline. Prophetic. I simply pointed at the manual and shrugged, happy that I was following instructions.
However, maybe he was right; I cannot get them together. I am not helped by the fact that I am at the absolute end of my crane (in other words, pushing the two pieces together works against gravity for the last four inches or so because my crane is against the front bumper, happily scratching it with every shove). I have tried caveman blocks, levers, and straps to get everything lined up and moved forward, and used every one of my 132 pounds to shove the several hundred pound engine, to no avail. Thank God it started raining tonight before I passed out from the effort.
I did try rotating the main pulley a few times, just a hair each time, but still no joy. I have raised and lowered the transmission and engine, tilted them, etc. I am sure that the end of the spline is in the torque converter.
So, can someone tell me what the trick is to put the engine and transmission back together? The manual is silent. It took some serious muscle to get them apart, and that was helped by my slightly short crane. I'm now wondering if I can get them together at all.
Any ideas or suggestions on how to mate the engine with the transmission other than "why would you do this by yourself, you idiot" would be warmly received.
Best,
Charlie V
Hi Charlie,
The few engines I have pulled - I have pulled them as you did - as engine disconnected
I pulled an MG engine attached to the MG transmission. Easier. But smaller engine.
You can do this.
But, you need to be careful as you'll break the pump in the transmission if not lined up exactly.
you could loosen up the bolts on the flex plate to give it a little wiggle room.
From what I had found on these jobs - it is just careful alignment and sweat and tears.
you need to get the engine perfectly level.
And the transmission perfectly level.
In the garage I am assuming the engine is on the mounts now.
I would finger some bolts into the mounts.
I would put a chain and a come a long onto the back of the engine to hoist it up and get it perfectly level.
I used a $100 crane - a motor with cable and a push button up down switch.
Get this at Harbor freight.
Now get the engine level and steady.
A transmission floor jack will work - the kind with wheels and elevation by pumping it.
And you will need to turn the torque convertor to line it up by using the teeth via the inspection hole
Or moving them away, turn, gently move in and wiggle slightly.
Eventually they will go together without force.
Then you know you have it.
Put in a bolt - quick.
---
Or pull them and bolt them on the floor.
You need to raise the engine in high and get the transmission in at a 45 degree angle.
I think your approach is better as long as you line up properly.
The few engines I have pulled - I have pulled them as you did - as engine disconnected
I pulled an MG engine attached to the MG transmission. Easier. But smaller engine.
You can do this.
But, you need to be careful as you'll break the pump in the transmission if not lined up exactly.
you could loosen up the bolts on the flex plate to give it a little wiggle room.
From what I had found on these jobs - it is just careful alignment and sweat and tears.
you need to get the engine perfectly level.
And the transmission perfectly level.
In the garage I am assuming the engine is on the mounts now.
I would finger some bolts into the mounts.
I would put a chain and a come a long onto the back of the engine to hoist it up and get it perfectly level.
I used a $100 crane - a motor with cable and a push button up down switch.
Get this at Harbor freight.
Now get the engine level and steady.
A transmission floor jack will work - the kind with wheels and elevation by pumping it.
And you will need to turn the torque convertor to line it up by using the teeth via the inspection hole
Or moving them away, turn, gently move in and wiggle slightly.
Eventually they will go together without force.
Then you know you have it.
Put in a bolt - quick.
---
Or pull them and bolt them on the floor.
You need to raise the engine in high and get the transmission in at a 45 degree angle.
I think your approach is better as long as you line up properly.
Hi Charlie,
The few engines I have pulled - I have pulled them as you did - as engine disconnected
I pulled an MG engine attached to the MG transmission. Easier. But smaller engine.
You can do this.
But, you need to be careful as you'll break the pump in the transmission if not lined up exactly.
you could loosen up the bolts on the flex plate to give it a little wiggle room.
From what I had found on these jobs - it is just careful alignment and sweat and tears.
you need to get the engine perfectly level.
And the transmission perfectly level.
In the garage I am assuming the engine is on the mounts now.
I would finger some bolts into the mounts.
I would put a chain and a come a long onto the back of the engine to hoist it up and get it perfectly level.
I used a $100 crane - a motor with cable and a push button up down switch.
Get this at Harbor freight.
Now get the engine level and steady.
A transmission floor jack will work - the kind with wheels and elevation by pumping it.
And you will need to turn the torque convertor to line it up by using the teeth via the inspection hole
Or moving them away, turn, gently move in and wiggle slightly.
Eventually they will go together without force.
Then you know you have it.
Put in a bolt - quick.
---
Or pull them and bolt them on the floor.
You need to raise the engine in high and get the transmission in at a 45 degree angle.
I think your approach is better as long as you line up properly.
The few engines I have pulled - I have pulled them as you did - as engine disconnected
I pulled an MG engine attached to the MG transmission. Easier. But smaller engine.
You can do this.
But, you need to be careful as you'll break the pump in the transmission if not lined up exactly.
you could loosen up the bolts on the flex plate to give it a little wiggle room.
From what I had found on these jobs - it is just careful alignment and sweat and tears.
you need to get the engine perfectly level.
And the transmission perfectly level.
In the garage I am assuming the engine is on the mounts now.
I would finger some bolts into the mounts.
I would put a chain and a come a long onto the back of the engine to hoist it up and get it perfectly level.
I used a $100 crane - a motor with cable and a push button up down switch.
Get this at Harbor freight.
Now get the engine level and steady.
A transmission floor jack will work - the kind with wheels and elevation by pumping it.
And you will need to turn the torque convertor to line it up by using the teeth via the inspection hole
Or moving them away, turn, gently move in and wiggle slightly.
Eventually they will go together without force.
Then you know you have it.
Put in a bolt - quick.
---
Or pull them and bolt them on the floor.
You need to raise the engine in high and get the transmission in at a 45 degree angle.
I think your approach is better as long as you line up properly.
The manual says to take the motor mount bracket on one side and the transmission cross member support off. I don't like that because it seems that is would make things more difficult to line up, though I can see how it would make thè top bolts easier to reach. I'm skinny and managed to get them off without all of that (but with the help of some extremely clever socket wrenches) and I am just using a regular floor jack under the transmission... my wife doesn't check on me very often and I could get squashed.
Any other suggestions?
are you sure the torque converter is all the way in? it goes in then spins then goes in again. This is were most people screw up and force it together wiping out the front pump. The converter should be on the tranny then it should be bolted to the flex plate after the engine is in place.
are you sure the torque converter is all the way in? it goes in then spins then goes in again. This is were most people screw up and force it together wiping out the front pump. The converter should be on the tranny then it should be bolted to the flex plate after the engine is in place.
I am trying again this afternoon. I will post my success.
OH. I see now.
Yes, that would be easier.
Put the torque converter in the transmission by hand.
And, then just line up the flex plate bolts..
Haha, I was guiding you by getting the torque convertor on via the engine already bolted to the flex plate.
Yes, makes sense to use the hands and senses to do the deilcate torque convertor placement first.
Then easy flex plate bolts..
When you bolt it together, it should go together - by hand.
Not a gap whereas the bolts must be employed to close the gap.
That means bad.
Yes, that would be easier.
Put the torque converter in the transmission by hand.
And, then just line up the flex plate bolts..
Haha, I was guiding you by getting the torque convertor on via the engine already bolted to the flex plate.
Yes, makes sense to use the hands and senses to do the deilcate torque convertor placement first.
Then easy flex plate bolts..
When you bolt it together, it should go together - by hand.
Not a gap whereas the bolts must be employed to close the gap.
That means bad.
Hmm. I made substantial progress last night but that last gives me pause.
The placement of the left points on the land Rover engine combined with chains to left it means that as the engine gets very close (about an inch) to the trnasmission) the chain hits the top of the firewall/cowl. It is very tight. I used a strap to gather the chains and that is how I got to within an inch. However, pulling the engine to the transmission for that last inch is not an option because of the chains, even gathered. SO, I am going to try to finish today but I don't see any way around using the bolts to suck things together. At this late stage with about an inch between the two pieces (and tonque converter happily in the transmission, not yet connected to the flex plate) am I stall at risk of damaging something or should it just find its own place on the face of the flex plate?
The placement of the left points on the land Rover engine combined with chains to left it means that as the engine gets very close (about an inch) to the trnasmission) the chain hits the top of the firewall/cowl. It is very tight. I used a strap to gather the chains and that is how I got to within an inch. However, pulling the engine to the transmission for that last inch is not an option because of the chains, even gathered. SO, I am going to try to finish today but I don't see any way around using the bolts to suck things together. At this late stage with about an inch between the two pieces (and tonque converter happily in the transmission, not yet connected to the flex plate) am I stall at risk of damaging something or should it just find its own place on the face of the flex plate?
Thanks all for the advice. Installing the torque coverter first did the trick. I ran out of light before I could bolt the flex plate but I will get to it tomorrow. Took quite a while and maybe a pint of blood to get the transmission bolts on. Thanks again!
With all this fun, be sure that the crank position sensor at driver's rear of engine does not get shifted, it is very sensitive to spacing. Engine will spin, but no spark, if it is not spaced correctly, or tip is bent.


