If you have loud ticking, it could be...an exhaust leak, the oil pump, lifters, rocker shafts, worn cam, cam bearings, rod or main bearings, even a slipped cylinder liner is possible.
Once they pass 100k or so miles, anything in there can make noise. Some never do.
I think in most cases, the loud tick after warm up is usually bearings.

 

So both those bearings you recommended before could possibly fix it or just a lot of other things lol? I guess once they cleaned it and put those parts on and the new gaskets I'll see what happens with it.

 

Yes, crank and rod bearings can make alot of noise.

 

lets be realistic. A hour or so to do rod bearings and crank bearings. This shop sounds expensive $4500 for gaskets. Not sure what exactly was quoted but no shop will only charge one hour Maybe oil change.

 

Sometimes this site embellishes how easy or how much a shop should only charge.
From experience sometimes the stuff that’s said here about oh this should only cost this much for the shop to do is totally ridiculous
shops are not gonna bust their *** for cheap

if he got quoted 3500 for gaskets and now he reads this and wants oil pump bearings chain whatever. What is the shop gonna say now ???

Bro if you love your truck get a used p38 engine in running condition or get a crate engine from Atlantic British or something and get at least one year warranty

 

Reread that.
It says, what they "Should" charge.
Oil pan off, those parts are right there.
Been there, done that...it's an hour with the pan already off. I'm letting him know, so not to get taken for a ride.
I'm not telling anyone what a shop is going to charge them either.
I already said a $4k gasket change was ridiculous.
I'm sure their 1 hour rate is steep too.
I gave the OP accurate part prices, so he can get them himself, or not overpay for them. He also now has an idea of how expensive all of this can get.
I get what you're saying...but don't insinute I'm misleading anyone...

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e-links-95873/


The Toddco 5.0 could be fun.

 

All that, and Cheaper than a Turner!
$6500 is alot of money, but all things considered, that 5.0 looks like a deal.

 

Using a P38 4.0L could also be a good choice. Bear in mind the 4.0L will likely be set up for GEMS so you will need to change the crank position sensor mount. There is negligible horsepower difference between the 4.6 and the 4.0. If you go with a P38 4.0L you can use a 4.6L camshaft for better performance.

 

I agree, except on the hp being negligible.
From what I read the 4.0 has 180hp/280trq, and the 4.6 has 217hp/300trq.
I know those 4.6 numbers are correct, but am unsure of the 4.0's
I have driven both, and my 4.6 definately feels like it had 30+ hp over the 4.0, the feel of more low rpm torque was very noticeable too.
Which is why when I got a 4.0 block to rebuild, I put my 4.6 crank and rods in it. If it had have been 5hp, meh, I'de have slapped heads in the 4.0 and dropped it in.
But, the difference in the 2 to me was dramatic.
I also am port matching heads, intake, and exhaust, and have a Crower cam, so I'm expecting to notice an improvement in the 4.6