Engine wiring burnt out on the highway
#1
09-17-2012, 09:01 PM
Engine wiring burnt out on the highway
I don't know what to call it. Engine right wiring. Multi cable harness???
It rested on the engine, burning through causing the truck to stall while on the highway. Why I don't know. Truck just died and I coasted to the curb. Tow truck home. 2 D2, 0 D1.
It burnt through 85% of the cable. I'm trying to figure it out thru RAVE and the other sources what this is and what the smallest replaceable component is. Or do I try and splice fix?
It rested on the engine, burning through causing the truck to stall while on the highway. Why I don't know. Truck just died and I coasted to the curb. Tow truck home. 2 D2, 0 D1.
It burnt through 85% of the cable. I'm trying to figure it out thru RAVE and the other sources what this is and what the smallest replaceable component is. Or do I try and splice fix?
#3
09-17-2012, 09:31 PM
#4
09-18-2012, 04:41 AM
Super Moderator
Based on previous suggestions, I would plan on splicing it. What you will find is that most (but not all) wires are single conductor, plain insulation. A few wires are shielded or twisted pair inside the same jacket. Save them for last. You'll need to slice back the protective wrap until you can clearly see the colors. Then write down a chart of the colors and number them, put tape with numbers on each wire. Goal is to identify how many you have that are the same color that are cut apart. Leave the bundle "as is" for as long as possible (don't cut all the waires, then try to put the six orange/reds back in correct order. Work one wire at a time).
Now if you have three cut wires that are Purple/white, you'll need to further trace them out to see where the go. The RAVE electrical and circuits manual can be searched using your pdf reader software, just put in the wire color abbreviations "PW" and it will find every instance that appears. This helps in hunting.
Most black wires are from a device to a ground point (earth). But are they black from burning or where they that color to start with?
The specialty wires (like a twisted pair with shielding) need to be spliced in with same style wire and if possible additional shield braid, like from CB radio coax, needs to be pulled over the pair of splices and soldered to existing shield, the purpose is to keep electrical noise from nearby cables from "cross talking" and screwing up signal from something, like the CKP to ECU link. You may not have any shielded wire in this bundle.
As for size (gauge) of wire, use same or bigger. OK to use any color, since you will have it numbered.
You can cover your new bundle with with a variety of wraps, and secure it away from hot spots.
An ohm meter, test light with long leads, some alligator clip jumpers, and continuity buzzer may help. Soldering iron and short pieces of shrik wrap tubing may help, does not look like a lot of room. If you can use crimp compression splices and have room to work that is fine as well.
Another thought is that if wires did not burn apart, you can re-insulate with tape, liquid electrical tape (a goo that you brush on that dries), etc.
You can do this with a good light. If you are not color blind. Take your time. This is a piece of cake compared to cutting out the back floor of the truck and installing diamond plate.
And we know you are crazy enough to try.
Note: Dismantlers, like Paul Grant, might be able to pull one or part of one for you, even if cut out and you were only able to purchase a section of it, it woud allow you to splice in the new section, slightly longer resulting harness, and re-route to taste.
Now if you have three cut wires that are Purple/white, you'll need to further trace them out to see where the go. The RAVE electrical and circuits manual can be searched using your pdf reader software, just put in the wire color abbreviations "PW" and it will find every instance that appears. This helps in hunting.
Most black wires are from a device to a ground point (earth). But are they black from burning or where they that color to start with?
The specialty wires (like a twisted pair with shielding) need to be spliced in with same style wire and if possible additional shield braid, like from CB radio coax, needs to be pulled over the pair of splices and soldered to existing shield, the purpose is to keep electrical noise from nearby cables from "cross talking" and screwing up signal from something, like the CKP to ECU link. You may not have any shielded wire in this bundle.
As for size (gauge) of wire, use same or bigger. OK to use any color, since you will have it numbered.
You can cover your new bundle with with a variety of wraps, and secure it away from hot spots.
An ohm meter, test light with long leads, some alligator clip jumpers, and continuity buzzer may help. Soldering iron and short pieces of shrik wrap tubing may help, does not look like a lot of room. If you can use crimp compression splices and have room to work that is fine as well.
Another thought is that if wires did not burn apart, you can re-insulate with tape, liquid electrical tape (a goo that you brush on that dries), etc.
You can do this with a good light. If you are not color blind. Take your time. This is a piece of cake compared to cutting out the back floor of the truck and installing diamond plate.
And we know you are crazy enough to try.
Note: Dismantlers, like Paul Grant, might be able to pull one or part of one for you, even if cut out and you were only able to purchase a section of it, it woud allow you to splice in the new section, slightly longer resulting harness, and re-route to taste.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 09-18-2012 at 04:50 AM.
#6
09-18-2012, 07:21 AM
#7
09-18-2012, 08:27 AM
splicing will require the help of my "mecanik friend". I don't want to go through insurance.
I'd love to locate a more spliceable or plugable section but I expect to be talking to Paul any minute. Don't tell him I really need it cuz the price will shooot up.
Feeling like the D2 is so much more fragile. This one needs a new headgasket, new bushings and now this "underhood wiring harness". NOt to mention a bunch of little things.
There are no bad Disco's there are only bad owners.
And Sava, I've been off the board because I'm embarrassed at my lack of progress and forward statements. I better do something else cool besides the floor or I'll lose any respect I may still have.
I'd love to locate a more spliceable or plugable section but I expect to be talking to Paul any minute. Don't tell him I really need it cuz the price will shooot up.
Feeling like the D2 is so much more fragile. This one needs a new headgasket, new bushings and now this "underhood wiring harness". NOt to mention a bunch of little things.
There are no bad Disco's there are only bad owners.
And Sava, I've been off the board because I'm embarrassed at my lack of progress and forward statements. I better do something else cool besides the floor or I'll lose any respect I may still have.
#9
09-18-2012, 08:46 AM
