OMG> Or no biggie my friend?

JFALL you're a poet. Thanks...

I'm glad you checked your rigs.....I'd be psyched if I helped steer someone away from this crap happening. It's a def didn't need to happen problem that I could have avoided for sure.

Just to clarify....if we do this job we need to take the harness out. We're not gonna fix it with our heads in the engine right?

 

I think the only coaxial wiring (not single conductor) will be for the knock sensors. If it were mine, I would splice the harness and do it in the truck, but I like having all of my blood pooling in my head. Make sure you do it on a particularly hot day while hung over.

 

Unfortunately I was 90% into this project when I found my issue was not the harness, but the harness is one piece from the tail light to the head lights, except for one separate harness that goes to the tranny from the main wiring harness.

And it is practically in possibly you get it out of the engine bay without removing the heater box, I busted up the box in the parts truck to remove my harness.

What I had done and you may have too is go to a “you do it electronics store” or on-line and buy some male and female pin connector’s, they come in 10, 20, 30 pin configuration use them to connect the wires under the hood at the firewall them cover them with shrink wrap to keep the moisture out.

Also check a schematic for color codes I found on the interior the LR love to use wires that are almost the same in colors, like red with a light blue strip and red with a gray stripe. It can be pretty hard to tell them apart.

 

I'd fix it in place. Why don't you start by slicing the cover wrap back so you can get a good look at all the colors and post them? Also number everything on both sides before cutting.

 

I looked closely at them last night.

What we have are about 6 or 7 small wires (like 10# or something) and one large one.

The large one is made up of smaller wound strands.

I think this is very doable and seeing what drowsap went through now I don't want to remove the harness obviously.

I'm clear how to repair the smaller wires. The larger one of smaller wound copper wires. What would be the best way to repair that one?

particularly hot day and hungover? pick one.

thanks.

 

I'm doing this with Guillo today.

It's about 7 smaller wires (like #10 maybe) and one large maybe 3/8 inch stranded copper wire. Maybe we get a special connector for that.

I'm going to Radio Shack to get supplies. I'll update on this one.

 

Wondering if 4 inches or so shorter length after splice will create any difficulties.....we'll see.

 

That big stranded copper wire sounds like a ground wire, but I'm surprised that it is in a wire bundle. Getting a splice for that wire may require a trip to a welding supply shop, although some auto parts stores do carry them. You will need a big crimper to make the splice connector work correctly. In wiring applications such as a house or building, that size wire is joined with a split-bolt but on a vehicle that may create a problem as the coupler may chafe on the adjacent wires. Of course, if you wrap it in enough rubber tape it should be ok. You can get that tape at an electrical supply house. It is used for taping splices on higher voltage connections.

 

You just need a large gauge wiring splice kit. Something like this:

 

yeah I needed that splice kit and looked around at the autoparts store and local hardware. nothing. so guillo insisted that he could fix it by cleaning and fitting it together and using some rubber tape.

he soldered all the smaller ones.

when i put the jumpers on the battery it started right up and ran on its own for 20 minutes......BUT I think it blew my battery. i'm going to PEP Boys this morning to sort it out.

(i'll add the finished pic shortly....a little ghetto but feels very good)