Everyones favorite codes and why you do not buy reman parts
Camel Trophy
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,880
Likes: 950
From: Charlotte
I don't understand why you think it's the valley gasket that might be causing the problems. The valley gasket is independent of the path air and fuel take into and through the engine. The fuel injector O-rings are the most likely cause for vacuum leaks in the area you are describing.
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Winching
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 745
Likes: 141
From: Fairfield County, CT
I have an '03 with the same codes. Replaced MAF, and all 4 O2 sensors with genuine Bosch, still have the codes. I can drive 200+ miles on the freeway before they come back, but they will come back within 5 to 10 miles of city driving. I was about to order an intake valley pan gasket and try that, but your post has me wondering about my brakes as a (partial?) cause. They were getting pretty warn down, so had them replaced, new pads and rotors front and rear. Since then, I have had a few occasions where it almost felt like I was losing the power brakes when I had to step on them hard. (I have a '46 *****'s CJ2A, so I know what that feels like.) Were you experiencing similar issues with your brakes or something different? Also, now they feel like they need bled really bad, even though they didn't before the new brakes were put on.
Thanks for any help from your experience. I still might have to do the valley pan gasket, because when I spray starter fluid on the top rear of the engine, it clearly is sucking it in, and smooths out the rough idle. But if you had symptoms similar to mine and same codes, I might need to do the brake booster as well?
Thanks for any help from your experience. I still might have to do the valley pan gasket, because when I spray starter fluid on the top rear of the engine, it clearly is sucking it in, and smooths out the rough idle. But if you had symptoms similar to mine and same codes, I might need to do the brake booster as well?
I got to a point where the braking sucked and the minute I stepped on the brakes it would trip the code, stepping on the brake to go into reverse out of my garage would trip them or on the road. I did notice that I could actually hear a hissing type sound when I stepped on the brakes inside the car, all windows closed.
I too have a bit of a rough idle, but that may be due clogged/old injectors. I do know that once I replaced the BB( both times) the 1171&1174 went away. New BB are a big ticket $500, remans when you can find them are about $275 or so.
I agree with mln01 about the valley gasket.
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Winching
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 745
Likes: 141
From: Fairfield County, CT
My buddy is a very experienced wrench turner and we both check the work. Since my son also drives this beast and our other child rides in very often I don't do work that I think will put them in jeopardy.
Clint Eastwood said it best in MAGNUM FORCE: " A mans got to know his limitations."
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
Thanks for the info, and sorry for sounding stupid. I must have misunderstood when the guys replying to my thread about these codes suggested it might be the intake manifold gasket (or leaking there).
Is the injector o-ring replacement a huge ordeal, or not too crazy? I see I can get an o-ring seal kit for pretty reasonable price. I have to figure these codes out soon for California smog in a few weeks.
I traced that large plastic vacuum hose from the booster around the back of the engine, to where it clips in the side. Looks like it's in good shape, and the engine dies completely if I pull it out, and runs normal (with a slight miss) when I push it back in.
Lastly, I didn't mean to hijack this thread, and seriously contemplating whether my brake booster is going out like yours was. It just did that thing briefly on the way to work this morning where it felt like I lost power brakes for a second, but only if I hit them hard. Gentle press of the pedal doesn't seem to recreate the scenario.
Thanks again for all the help!
Is the injector o-ring replacement a huge ordeal, or not too crazy? I see I can get an o-ring seal kit for pretty reasonable price. I have to figure these codes out soon for California smog in a few weeks.
I traced that large plastic vacuum hose from the booster around the back of the engine, to where it clips in the side. Looks like it's in good shape, and the engine dies completely if I pull it out, and runs normal (with a slight miss) when I push it back in.
Lastly, I didn't mean to hijack this thread, and seriously contemplating whether my brake booster is going out like yours was. It just did that thing briefly on the way to work this morning where it felt like I lost power brakes for a second, but only if I hit them hard. Gentle press of the pedal doesn't seem to recreate the scenario.
Thanks again for all the help!
Camel Trophy
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,880
Likes: 950
From: Charlotte
I would take your testing of the vac line a step further. Pull out the line and immediately plug the intake manifold port by putting your finger over it. If the idle smooths out (no missing) that would point to the brake booster. If not, keep looking (e.g injector O-rings).
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
I would take your testing of the vac line a step further. Pull out the line and immediately plug the intake manifold port by putting your finger over it. If the idle smooths out (no missing) that would point to the brake booster. If not, keep looking (e.g injector O-rings).
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
OK, just got a minute to go out and try it. Unfortunately, once it settles down, the slight rough idle seems to be about the same, so pulling that hose and plugging the manifold port doesn't change much if anything.
So first step, I will re-bleed the brakes tomorrow and see if that helps anything.
Second step, still have to chase down these codes. I realize it's money...but this thing has been that from day one, so...should I just replaced the injectors if I tear it all the way down to the point of replacing the o-rings? Not sure how long they're supposed to last, she's just ticked over 90K miles now.
Really appreciate the advice, thank you all.
So first step, I will re-bleed the brakes tomorrow and see if that helps anything.
Second step, still have to chase down these codes. I realize it's money...but this thing has been that from day one, so...should I just replaced the injectors if I tear it all the way down to the point of replacing the o-rings? Not sure how long they're supposed to last, she's just ticked over 90K miles now.
Really appreciate the advice, thank you all.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
I agree there's got to be a vacuum leak or air getting int the system somewhere for those codes, might be the injector seals like you say. Didn't mean to sound like I thought bleeding the brakes had anything to do with that.
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Winching
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 745
Likes: 141
From: Fairfield County, CT
You are not hijacking the thread by any means. You are using it to help solve a problem.
I will say that you almost seem to be looking for a reason to tear into the engine, smog inspection not withstanding. There are some posts about cleaning injectors on here and rebuilding them. You could also go the route of getting rehabbed injectors like these:
*5 YEAR WARRANTY* Genuine Bosch Set Of 8 Fuel Injectors for Land Rover 4.0L | eBay
These are not the only ones out there, just grabbed these as an example.
One thing that just occurred to me is that you may have a brake caliper that is stuck.
If you are not confident in your brake bleeding skills, don't dick around, take it to a shop and get it power bled.
I will say that you almost seem to be looking for a reason to tear into the engine, smog inspection not withstanding. There are some posts about cleaning injectors on here and rebuilding them. You could also go the route of getting rehabbed injectors like these:
*5 YEAR WARRANTY* Genuine Bosch Set Of 8 Fuel Injectors for Land Rover 4.0L | eBay
These are not the only ones out there, just grabbed these as an example.
One thing that just occurred to me is that you may have a brake caliper that is stuck.
If you are not confident in your brake bleeding skills, don't dick around, take it to a shop and get it power bled.