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Is this everything I'll need to convert my '99 DII to a CDL linkage?

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  #21  
Old 10-06-2012, 02:06 PM
Racer X's Avatar
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Linkage is in! Some observations:

- You'd do well to have a M8x1.25 tap and thread cleaner on hand. The holes on top of my transfer case were full of crap and crud, there was no way anything was going to thread into those holes without being cleaned up first.
- That tutorial called for using a 3/16th bolt, which in my mind it too thin and looks as if one day it would fail from fatigue, which would suck. I bored the hole on the HI/LO arm to 8mm, and used an M8x1.25x50mm bolt, which matches the bore of the bearing on the rod end. I used a nylon locking nut to secure the bolt to the arm, and again to secure the rod end bearing against the lateral adjustment nut.
- The top of the shifter plate was removed, and replaced with the boot. The remaining shifter plate was mounted on top of the body, whereas before it was below. This is necessary to make use of the shifter boot and it's retaining ring.
- If your shifter doesn't come with the bolts to mount to the transfer case (mine didn't), you can use two M8x1.25x40mm bolts, and two M8x1.25x20mm bolts.

Everything went swimmingly, nice to have an easy and factory looking way to lock the center differential!
 
  #22  
Old 10-08-2012, 08:32 AM
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Ohh I forgot about that part, yea the plate mounts on top now Sounds like you did good! I've been considering putting a bead of black rtv between the plate to cut down the draft and road noise... youll notice it on a cold day at speed, but I think its worth having the ability to lock for snow!
 
  #23  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by grandkodiak
Ohh I forgot about that part, yea the plate mounts on top now Sounds like you did good! I've been considering putting a bead of black rtv between the plate to cut down the draft and road noise... youll notice it on a cold day at speed, but I think its worth having the ability to lock for snow!
Yeah I definitely laid down a bead of RTV on the plate, as this is how it is on the Disco I and RRC as I recall.

I also trimmed the top of the plate off from the top of the shifter upwards, and made use of the rubber boot and retaining ring from the DI, as the holes in that ring line up to the holes on the DII. The foam insulation was also trimmed to accept the boot, and reinstalled. There's a little bit of driveline vibration transmitted to the shifter because the range selector is bolted right to the transfer case, but not so much that I'm bothered by it.

I wanted to go test it out this weekend, however my Disco was sooo excited that the linkage was finally installed, it went and sprung a massive coolant leak at the water outlet pipe on the lower intake. Typical.
 
  #24  
Old 10-08-2012, 01:52 PM
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Did you use rivets to secure the plate? If not, then don't. Use sheet metal screws instead. (Odds are you'll be back in there again someday and sheet metal screws will be a lot easier to remove/replace.)
 
  #25  
Old 10-08-2012, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dcarr1971
Did you use rivets to secure the plate? If not, then don't. Use sheet metal screws instead. (Odds are you'll be back in there again someday and sheet metal screws will be a lot easier to remove/replace.)
I used rivets. Drilling them out isn't a big deal, really. A 3/16th's bit makes short work of them, and they don't have a propensity to back out like sheet metal screws can.
 
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