Here is the part for just the studs: Stud - Exhaust Manifold (ERR551 Same Fit As Part # LR009704 ) - Land Rover bolts\clamps\brackets\washers from Atlantic British
Here is the kit: Land Rover Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit | Land Rover Exhaust System Parts
Both are from AB.
Try and bribe a friend with booze so you have extra hands. I Had to use a pry bar to get enough space between Y pipe and manifold to get gasket in place.

 

Thanks for the insight.

I have a brother-in-law across the street prepped for the job. He wants me to take the Disco to Moab next week also because if we don't, we will have to take the wife's new rig, which means easier trails.

So he is almost as invested in fixing this thing as I am!

 

Update:

The nuts and gasket were coming from Rover's North and came in a timely manner. I didn't get the studs as I ordered before I read about them. I soaked the bolts in aerokroil/kroil overnight.

I went to loosen them and they came right out (Kroil is AMAZING stuff), unfortunately, I pulled the stud out of the one behind the starter heat shield...

So then I realized why the new studs were important, the lip of the CAT catches the crossmember, so you either have to remove the studs or the cross member (unless there is a trick I don't know?). The crossmember sees a lot of grime and does not look trivial to remove, so I didn't want to touch it. Then I tried to put the stud back in....

How the crap do you put those studs in without a flat-head screw-driver notch? I used one of the old nuts and actually got it started, but mostly, it just rode the nut back up the other threads.

My dad an I were at a loss because we couldn't figure out how to get the other studs out and in without damaging them and not having studs on-hand became an issue. Plus we didn't know how to get the new studs in properly anyway, even if we did have them.

So we decided to just tighten everything down as we had a gap large enough to feel the gasket. Luckily it did not feel chewed up like the above poster.

We got the torque wrench out and tightened every nut (the old ones) over the original gasket. I should have at least tried this at first and save a lot of headache.....I guess that's why I'm an engineer and not a mechanic!

I was able to get each nut to 22 ft/lbs and drove around and everything appears quiet and good. Engine sounds great!

Downside? The stud behind the heat shield (the one that came out) has significantly more threads exposed than the others. This means I have minimal thread engagement on the exhaust manifold, and it makes me wonder how long it is going to hold.

You can tell in the attached link on the stud that there isn't a lot of threads on the exhaust manifold side anyway.

Any thoughts on how to fix this, or should I leave it? With the other two nuts at 22 ft/lbs it might just hold.......

Consider me an idiot, but I can't for the life of me see the way to get these studs in and out and seat properly. If you could...........this would be a 20 minute job.

How do you guys do it!?

Unless I get any good ideas, I'm just going to head to Moab next week and pray the short-stud holds.....

 

I'd just go have fun.

I've always removed the exhaust manifolds to replace the studs, and I'm very impressed that you got that far from underneath. Maybe a future project for you.

 

Thanks Charlie. I didn't think about removing the manifold. That's probably the way to do it, replace all the studs and the manifold gaskets also.

That's what I'll do if it starts leaking again......*knock on wood*....

 

If all that happens at Moab is your exhaust leaks a little you have been blessed by the rover gods.

 

Well Charlie, I made it back from Moab with just the plastic quarter cover on the drivers side rear bumper popped off. The part that is just below the tail-light. But the bumper is fine and so is the aluminum, so I have NO clue how that popped out!

But we had a stock Jeep Liberty with us, so we didn't do any extreme trails. It was still tons of fun though!

Thanks for everyone's help!




Long Canyon. It was washed out this time...the step at the top was quite technical and almost smashed the side of my dad's H2 (and even threatened my disco) when we descended). I had previously considered this a stock-vehicle friendly trail...but not in 2016..

 

This is a lot of great info. I just did my head gaskets and now the exhaust leaks around the Y-pipe and manifold. Looks like I'll get to spend more time under the turd.

 

So, you were blessed by the rover gods! Congratulations on a successful trip!

Plastic. Ugh. Bane of offroaders. Celebrate its absence.

 

Hahah. Speaking of plastic....the Rover Gods attempted to curse me as I was swapping out my coolant in preperation for the trip.

I don't know how you guys get the coolant to drain nicely, I decided to use the bottom radiator hose. Bad idea. It was easy to get off (and then flush a few times with distilled water), but a PAIN to get the clamp tool on the clamp and clamp down.

As I was finally straining to put the clamp around the radiator nipple.......SNAP! The thin plastic suction hose that goes from the upper radiator along the radiator to the expansion tank snapped!

ARGH! The trip was the NEXT DAY. I was telling my wife to prep the Hummer H3 as it was looking no British engineering would be traversing the red-rocks that year.

But I searched some threads on here quickly and decided to buy myself about 50" of 1/4" fuel hose and routed that instead of the plastic. Sure, it's routed OVER the fan shroud (because you need more than 50", FYI) and zip tied in place, but it actually looks much tougher and it's most likely going to last much longer too.

So....yeah, plastic is HORRIBLE.