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Exhaust smoke, waterfall sound overheating... HELP!

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Old 12-05-2012, 03:57 PM
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Default Exhaust smoke, waterfall sound overheating... HELP!

I've been noticing this waterfall sound behind dash. Then I just recently overheated the DII with 96k miles. Topped off coolant and ran codes and was getting a misfire on #3 even though I just put in new wires and plugs. Three days later overheated again and this time noticed white smoke out exhaust.

1) Does all this mean head gasket?
2) If so, what are we looking at price wise form a mechanic?
3) I am a brake pads, lift and plugs and wires guys and that is about the extent of my knowledge and work on the the Disco and quite frankly any car. Is this something I should attempt myself?
4) I also have the infamous tick. Mechanic thinks it's lifters going bad? Not too bothersome but is it worth getting these done when doing head gasket.
5) What should my next steps be.
6) Anybody in Atlanta and want to be my mechanic????? LOL? Any good suggestions for mechanic?
 
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:25 PM
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Head gaskets do this. The cooling system is always running water thru the heater core, so exhaust gas bubbles go in there also. The white smoke out the back is an HG leak into a cylinder. Mechanic is most likely incorrect about the tick. The tick is normaly caused by a cylinder sleeve that has come loose due to extreme overheat. When truck warms up, it starts slipping up/down and taps on the fire ring of the head gasket. It does not blow the head gasket. In many cases when revved up the tick goes away, perhaps because it can't slide all the way to the end and tap before psiton reverses. No easy fix for a tick, but a variety of solutions for various things that tick. Valve train ticks normally noticed right at start up when oil pressure is low.

Plenty of mechanics in Atlanta. Some of the best ones are along Virginia-Highland, where you have to take the engine block inside every night.

You are looking at 12 hours of shop labor, some machine shop work, and a kit of parts that would cost you $300. Out the door in the $2500 range. DIY can certainly be done, many on here have done it. Takes two weekends, with machine shop inbetween to plane the heads flat again.
 
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:29 PM
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Thanks, I was afraid that is what you were going to say. How do they know its not a cracked block etc? Would you even attempt using K seal?
 
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:17 PM
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Kseal may last for a modest period. At this point, it won't hurt, unless you have a sludged up cooling system, in which case it could make overheating more often.

Usually a garden variety HG makes the white smoke. But a cracked block can let exhaust under higher pressure (during the compression stroke) enter the cooling system, frequently that makes for violent activity in the coolant bottle, swift over heat, etc. When engine intake is off, there is a pressure test that can be done that uses high pressure and block off plates to pressure test the block.

Now deep in the dark heart of Dunwoody, on a cul-de-sac bristling with Ackerman signs, there is a lone light on in a garage. And that guy is doing the HG himself. With modest tools, it will take perhaps two weekends of wrench work. In between, a trip to the machine shop to flatten the heads. About $300 of parts.
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Now deep in the dark heart of Dunwoody, on a cul-de-sac bristling with Ackerman signs, there is a lone light on in a garage. And that guy is doing the HG himself. With modest tools, it will take perhaps two weekends of wrench work. In between, a trip to the machine shop to flatten the heads. About $300 of parts.
That sounds so nostalgic that its tempting. Disco Mike made rebuilding the front end shaft sound nostalgic too until I reassembled it and sounded like it was going to explode. Luckily I found a drive shaft shop that redid my work for $20. DiscoMike was good though, I am just not that good. Really scared that once I start it I will ultimately be bringing it in anyways. Just never tore into an engine before.

I've talked to a few shops and here was they are saying:

1) Shop in Marietta (Enzo's Automotive Service) said that 75% of the time when you are getting smoke that it is leaking between the sleeve and the cylinder which means new engine (Low end $4,000 and high end $8000). If it is just head gasket though it will run around $$1,600. $230 to diagnose (said they have LR master mechanic that will do compression test and check gases in coolant to see which it is)

2) I just spoke to a shop in Canton (Bimmertech) and they say have only seen the leak between sleeve and cylinder once so it is rare. Price for HG relacement would be $2500. Looking at up to two weeks depending on how long machine shop is backed up.

3) Just spoke to Roccos, ha $4,000

What to do??????????????????????????????????????
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:38 AM
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If you are going to get the head gaskets done - best to find a place that does rovers.
Nothing magic about it.
But, getting off the air injection plumbing is hard.

I did my first Discovery II in a parking lot in Boulder, CO.
Took me two weeks.

A shop can do it in a long day I bet.

I learned on a Discovery I in 2009.

We still have the Discovery I and II.

Here is what is involved on Discovery I
1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets

and Discovery II

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

Good luck to you.
If you get it done, you should probably get rebuilt heads onto it.
I did not do that (Twice now) and I am fine - but, you never know.
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:00 PM
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the first shop at $1600 is more around the right price. But i dont like the the way they are already coveing there butts by say it might be a slipped liner.
By the way, neither test (compression test or Co2 test) will tell you if it is a liner. They will tell you if you have low compression or exhaust in your coolant either could be caused by a head gasket or a liner.
Its a roll of the dice, but the longer it has been that way; the more damage is likely.
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:58 PM
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You can do the cylinder compression test and exhaust gas in coolant test your self with tools loaned from parts stores, chemical test also sells for about $50. But results could be from HG or cracked block. A pressure test of block can be done when it is taken apart for HG but still in the truck. The odds are in your favor that it is head gaskets. Now the tick, that could be a slipping liner (no crack). Different issue, fixes include stabilize temperature, and it stops; pin the liners (drilling); and replace engine; or re-work engine and install "top hat" liners. Many Rovers are driven with "the tick".
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:18 PM
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I found a guy that will do the Head Gasket for $1850 which includes redoing the head. Said he used to work for Land Rover in Buckhead for years. The only thing that makes me a little uncomfortable is that he said that he did not always machine the head when replacing HG. Is that a reasonable statement? He even had to call to get a price on it. Seems knowledgeable assuming that comment is not a red flag.

My second question would be that if I have had a come and go tick for a while and if I am doing the HG replacement, should I go ahead and replace the Lifters in hope that my tick might clear up. He wants an additional $347 for that and is using OEM lifter from Rover. Said I could bring my own. Any ideas as to best place to buy them? I noticed Atlantic British had 16 for $220. Can I buy local at local auto parts store or should I steer away from those?
 

Last edited by srockrae; 12-06-2012 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:22 PM
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I did not have my heads worked.
I just changed the gaskets - and hoped for the best.

On the 1997 Land Rover I -
I did buy lifters and just dropped them in.

Has been quiet as a bug in a rug - since 2009.

I have gone from 138,000 to now 167,000 miles on my "hack" head gasket adventure.
That's not really far tho. - About 30k on my new head gaskets.

I may get punished soon by the head gaskets again as I did not do it "well" and "complete" by resurfacing the heads.

Best to "Do it right" the first time.

For the lifters - just run Rotella thick oil and you may be then OK.
 


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