I was looking at purchasing the extended front radius arms because I put a 3” lift on my 04 disco and the front tires will scrape on the fender flares towed the rear of the front tires when at a slight turn hitting a bump. But from what I’m seeing the bars are not that much longer than the stock ones. I was under the impression that they pushed the front axle forward a good bit.

 

Castor correct radius arms put your lifted front axle back into original position

 

I get that but from the lengths Im confused on how? Stock next to the corrected ones look the same in length.

 

For a 3" lift you might have to purchase the radius arms that are +3 degrees castor corrected.

 

If you get that, then what’s the confusion? Now I’m confused.

if you picture a toy RC car with a lots of crazy suspension - pick it up off a flat surface slowly by the body of the truck - the wheelbase will slowly “shrink” so to speak. as you lengthened your distance from body to axel that space is drawn from your drivetrain. Physics Pulls your axles inbound. So a castor correction not only rotates your steering camber back to original position but would also add a little length to accommodate that space drawn by additional lift.

 

your tire size choice will also directly effect your turning radius & I turn your rubbing in wheel wells.

I’m using a 6 degree castor correction.
3 wouldn’t quite put me back to stock with my setup. there are ways to calculate proper range of degree adequate for your lift. 3, 6, 9 degree of castor correction

I had Simon make mine from RTE. He was helpful, and applied experience to suggest which degree jig to use when building for mine.

 

Ah, okay so that pic must be for a 2" lift I guess. Im thinking I may need a 6 degree or so with a 3" lift. SundayFunday, you mind telling me how much it cost to get 1 made?

 

I found that there not as cheap as I would have hoped. I think RTE was about 400$ - plus he requires a core charge to obtain yours - so shipping both ways added a little as well. Then he also can or suggests you put new poly bushings in there as well.

I like Simon & the build quality (very heavily built) RTE quite a bit, for my particular application of where & what I like to do w my truck. And the custom castor correction based directly on my build was a bug help. Made right here in USA
I think the adrenaline monkey out of UK castor corrections & terrafirma we’re a little cheaper? Can’t quite remember- but In the end the RTE was the best choice for me

 

Nice, thanks man. Ill see what they can do.

 

+1 for RTE. The stock radius arms are cast steel then Simon bends them and plates the full length of the arm. The stock arms are way stronger than anything aftermarket. Plus you don’t have to worry about getting the wrong size bushing, I went with OEM which need to be pressed in vs poly. If you go that route you’ll need a shop to press them for you unless you have a really good press at home. Some pics in my build thread of the arms if you are interested.