if you are to hold your forearms out in front of you at a 90 degree to your biceps, palms vertical, fingers tight, parallel - like a robot.

Sway just your hands in unison, left & right as if simulating your front two wheels steering. This would be stock steering; smooth as factory.

now lift your elbows up 2-3”
This should leave your hands pointed slightly down towards the ground. And when you sway your Hands simulating your steering - you can see technically your steering at a certain degree into the ground - instead of straight ahead.
Lifting the frame 3”, has pulled your frame further away from your axles - that space is drawn from your suspension- this is why your adding taller springs & longer travel shocks, extended brake lines ect- the castor arms are mounted to frame & while lifting, it rotated your axles a few degrees - so your now steering into the ground. The heavy weight of the truck, plus oversized tires makes the return to center steering not 100% - and this can vary based in quality products and individual setup. A few degrees to some is manageable & acceptable to a rover operator. The higher you lift, the more axle rotation occurs; thus the varying degrees of castor correction 3,6,9

 

@SundayFunday Fantastic explanation. Thank you!

 

Adrenaline's were perfect. TF's I did not like....

 

great explanation and thank you for clarifying XRAD!

 

I called these guys and they said they damaged your old truck taking it off with a front loader. Apparently the radius arms are toast. Bummer - that would have been a good find!

 

Lower the mounting brackets on the frame. Get some square/rectangular tubing and cut out a spot for the frame and drop the bars 4 inches.