There's a virtual demo of the nanocom on their website that allows you to see it's capbilities. That might help you a little.

As far as swaps and all that, can't help you much. But coming from the LS world, I would advise you to not even think about a 4l60, especially not in a heavy vehicle like a disco. They can't handle weight and power, and even if you get a "fully built" one, it'll most likely just fail again regardless of who built it. If you can fit a 4l80, it's far more capable and reliable trans. I'd take a stock 4l80 over a fully built 4l60 any day. The 4l80e in my junk truck with 280k miles and questionable service history is still going strong, and it's spent most of it's life behind a 6.0 chuggin around an extended cab long bed 2500 as a company truck before I bought it.

The discos 4hp22/24 really aint too bad and you rarely hear about internal failures. Mine's at almost 140k, most from previous bad owners, and its still smooth as silk. Haven't kept up with the disco LS swap stuff, but if they're being used behind 5.3's now with no issues, I'd just stick with it.

That's just my opinion though.

 

I purchased a 2003 disco just for the hp24 trans with less than 85k to handle the planned 300 ft lbs of torque.

The zf is my preferred trans of choice

I don't think the 4l60e would work with the right had drop front drive shaft. Im already well invested with the woods drive shaft.

 

Sounds like a good plan. I saw mention of 4l60 and had to trash it so nobody ever makes that mistake.

Would eventually like to put a 4.8 or 5.3 in my 02, but the two 6.0s in my workshop torn down to the bare blocks say I have other priorities first lol.

Good luck.

 

The only system I really worry about losing is the abs/tc systems. To lose that is a lot of stress on the rover axles.



I suppose a Detroit/true track locker in the rear/front axle along with 12v switch cdl would bring back off road performance. Possibly improve it. She won't be doing more than moderate trials anyway.

ABS is a nice function, although with oversized tires I don't know if the discos stock brakes are strong enough to lock down 33s so I'd imagine the abs system is also already working well under its designed performance level.

 

run the 6L90 and throw air lockers in. that way it's stronger and doesn't sacrifice any on pavement performance unless you really need them. Not the cheapest option but really the discos stock systems are quite good without any aids but the strength gained from a locker are definitely a plus. Good brake components and a good bleed will handle 33s just fine.

 

I like the selectable lockers (loved the reliability of the old cable lockers) but the new true track lockers you won't notice they are there. Even in snow you don't get the unplanned kick that leaves a slid mark in your drawers.

 

The trutracs have diminished effectiveness 33s and larger. Also imo they stress things more than selectables as they require slipping or spinning to engage and more likely to shock load the driveline.. In the snow on pavement the rover doesn't need anything else in 99% of the time and in the times it needs more you will know it lol

 

I only mentioned the true tracks/locker as a plan B. If I can't get around the electronics and the abs/tc is disabled it will heavily stress a single axle. It's easy to fix warning lights when you remove the light bulbs.

My reasoning is with true tracks I'll spread the effort around mechanically.

Along with re-gearing with ashcroft 4.14 gears and pegging I will considerably upgrade the stock axles even with stock shafts which are not much of a weak point for a mall crawler. The forestry service shut down all our good local trails 20 years ago so she'll only see the occasional forestry service road. Not toyota axle strong but I can no longer find 400 dollar 60/62/80 open diff axles

Again, I'd rather have the tc and abs functional but I want to have a plan b. I'll have this set up running in my spare 2003 rig before it gets tossed into the daily driver 99 rig.

 

Lots of good info as this thread progresses- can’t wait to see what you ultimately end up with..

Nanocom is not going to be your end all be all. When you un-mate your bcu to the V8 - your loosing that communication with the ABS & the ladder.
As you equip your truck with a modified diesel (for gas mileage…) your sacrifice as far as the NAS is limiting your genuine options.
So upgraded driveline to bring back TC and lack of ABS should all be in the “cheaper” conversion algorithm.

I have an international version of the 300tdi in my 04. I’ve got a conversion plate for auto 4HP24 - No ABS - but have a 10x better pedal reaction with 35’s then I do with 33’s on another 04 with ABS.
Nanocom will not adjust any metrics of the TDi - bc it thinks it’s communicating with gas motronic . It’s bummer bc even with unlock codes for diesel - it’s not recognizing beyond the bcu.

loss of abs & traction is no bother in my situation as I outfitted w selectable lockers & appropriate gearing. Engine temp & rpm are converted using conversion plugs - but I also use manual engine monitoring to be sure (madman)

I hated all the threads of people shaming the building of a diesel D2 conversion. However it’s a lot of work. Proven kits are there. TD5’s are sourcable & can be tuned with ease. It’s kind of a no brainer

 

Thanks for the encouragement and info!

being that this is a daily driver and I can't get td5 parts readily that's a no go. Same reason I chose a the isuzu 4bd1t and 4bd2t motors over that of importing a 2H, 2B or other yota diesel for my land cruiser diesel swaps. Had the vw tdi swaps been as popular and well documented as they are now back 10 years ago I'd have gone with the BHW in both rigs. I would have had far less issues with weight and torque pulse eating drive train parts like synchro and output shaft bearings.




So back to the issues at hand. I do not plan on removing the 4.0 ecu. I need the bcu to work or I'll set off the alarm and brick the vehicle's immobilizer.

Does anyone know how the following sensors operate? The idea is to make the bcu think the 4.0 is still there. What readings, ohms, pulse waves, volts etc does the ecu get from the following:

crank position sensor
cam sensor
Engine speed sensor
Throttle position sensor
Knock sensor if I have them

I can make an adapter to fit the 4.0 temp sensor into the bhw.

I also have an extra port got an oil pressure sensor on the oil cooler of the bhw I'd needed

If the engine speed sensor is a pick up I need to know if it picks up say magnets on flywheel or if it's flywheel teeth it counts etc. Same with other sensors.

Making a list of this will hopefully assist other with these swaps in the future.

I've seen more than a few "here is a running swapped disco 2 ask questions " where the op doesn't go into any detail on how to make there dash lights all go off properly with the swap. They brag about making it all work as designed but never give the details.