One of the more irritating things Land Rover did was cram the coil packs into the nether regions of the engine bay. Back in 2021, frustrated by this design, I found and installed a coil pack relocation kit that tucked them neatly between the alternator and fuse box — a pretty elegant fix that’s made troubleshooting much easier over the years.



Fast forward to winter 2025, and I’ve been chasing down a rough idle and random misfire. A lot of signs have been pointing to the spark plug wires. The kit I installed in 2021 came with generic no-name 8mm wires in custom lengths. I’ve never loved that I couldn’t use stock wires — it’s made replacements more of a pain than they should be. I really want to be able to replace the wires easily, and I can’t.

That’s where @Extinct and the coil pack relocation kit he developed come in. It finally lets me relocate the packs and use stock wires. I also love having access again to the space the old relocation kit occupied, as well as easier access to the alternator and AC compressor — since removing those is often step one in so many engine-related projects, and the 2021 kit routed wires right over them.

I finally had a chance to install Extinct’s kit today and wanted to share a couple notes. A lot of this will make the most sense alongside the install instructions or if you’re already familiar with how the kit works.

1. Coil orientation: I mounted the coil packs opposite each other instead of keeping both connectors on the driver side. This gave better clearance for the coil pack connector and ICV hose, and as a bonus, all the odd-numbered wires now line up with the odd cylinders, and evens with evens.

2. O-rings: I removed the O-rings from the long bolts — the spacers were easier to seat without them, and torque readings were more consistent.

Now... hood clearance... Tim mentions in the instructions that some Discos have issues with hood clearance and the rear-most wires. My Disco was one of those Discos. It took a tiny more force to shut the hood the first time and after opening it back up, I could see the indents the wires left. Also bent the two back wires a bit too. NBD, they're bendy.



So after weighing some options, I decided to take the hood off and make a recess for the wires to sit in. Wasn't my original idea, got the overall idea from this post.

I used the impressions left in the hood insulation as a starting point for placement and used a pick to make a scratch mark through the center of the indents. Once the hood insulation was removed, the scratch mark transferred through and was visible in the paint below.





The distance between the two center points of the indents was 50mm. I marked the center between the indent points and then measured out 70mm in each direction, making the total cut 140mm long and 30mm wide. That gave enough margin for front-to-back and side-to-side play.



From there I used a step bit to make the holes on each end, which was a little tricky since the hole fell on an existing one from the factory. It's not pretty but it works. And after the holes were bored, I connected the two with an angle grinder. Aluminum is such a joy to work with.





Then I cleaned up the burrs and smoothed all the edges with a Dremel and sandpaper wheel. They're super smooth now, no sharp edges.





Check out the videos below for clearance checks. I think they clear? Looks like it's pretty dead on.

Everything clears beautifully now, and I reclaimed some workspace in the engine bay. While I was in there, I gave everything a deep clean — even found an old mouse nest and patched up their “renovations” with epoxy and fiberglass.

You Tube

You Tube

 

That looks nice, I just used a cutoff wheel to cut a rectangle out.

 

I had luck just bashing the crap out of the underside of the hood. Luckily there's the hood insert to cover my barbaric actions.