Fault 33 P1884
#1
12-18-2012, 11:03 AM
#2
12-18-2012, 11:12 AM
Super Moderator
P1884 (33, 34) * CAN Buss message:
Engine torque invalid
Substitute engine torque of derived from other
inputs. May affect shift quality.Engine torque invalid
Substitute engine torque of derived from other
This is from the tranny computer, to the engine computer, via the buss that links them. The tranny computer does not like the signal being sent by the engine and is trying to use substitute values to help it decide when to shift. If you were a V8 user we would be talking about things that make engine run rough. The ZF transmissions require a tip-top condition battery in the vehicle, clean electrical connections and ground counnections, etc.
#3
12-18-2012, 11:19 AM
#4
12-18-2012, 11:41 AM
I've also seen corrosion inside the computers cause weird problems where certain inputs weren't getting passed back and forth. I had a 99 D2 that wouldn't idle because the ECM was getting a bad road speed signal from the SLABS computer making it think it was always going 88 mph. And the same truck had an issue with the three (two actually) amigos coming on because the SLABS computer wasn't getting a signal from the ECM telling it how much throttle was being applied. A soft tooth brush, warm water, dish soap, and then a rinse with alcohol and distilled water fixed it right up. I trick I learned from reading a post by ptschram.
#5
12-20-2012, 06:51 AM
#6
12-20-2012, 07:21 AM
Super Moderator
#7
12-20-2012, 02:55 PM
Guys,
Wondering if the alternator putting out too much voltage on and off rapidly could also scramble the CAN signal?
I would listen to your alternator and make sure there is no grinding from it.
Also - if you have an oscilloscope - put it on AC and at .01 volt.
See if there is noise on your voltage lines - especially to the ECU.
Wondering if the alternator putting out too much voltage on and off rapidly could also scramble the CAN signal?
I would listen to your alternator and make sure there is no grinding from it.
Also - if you have an oscilloscope - put it on AC and at .01 volt.
See if there is noise on your voltage lines - especially to the ECU.
#8
12-20-2012, 04:05 PM
Super Moderator
The battery forms a very good sized filter for the fullwave rectified voltage from the alternator (three phase to DC). The 12 volt electrical system is reduced to 5 volt logic levels or less by on board regulator ICs. If it was alternator noise I would suspect you would hear it in audio system. But it could be too much voltage, 14.4 is the spec. Also, grounds at various places can be loose and cause problems.
But - one person from Australia posted about a CAN bus wire being crushed or such and causing all sorts of hard to find issues, between tranny and ECU.
But - one person from Australia posted about a CAN bus wire being crushed or such and causing all sorts of hard to find issues, between tranny and ECU.
#9
12-21-2012, 11:04 AM
P1184
Gentlemen thank you again, for your help, when i had the car serviced the alternator was checked and deemed OK but i dont remember what the guy said as to the output voltage. I had a new battery put on at the time of service, The gear shifting is laboured especially from cold, the sport mode and the kickdown work, and i am experiencing the dreaded three amigos more so after jet washing the ice and snow from the wheel arches.
again thank you all, wishing everybody a happy christmas and prosperous healthy new year. If i dont get the car sorted I'm going Jap
again thank you all, wishing everybody a happy christmas and prosperous healthy new year. If i dont get the car sorted I'm going Jap
#10
03-14-2022, 10:04 PM
Just what I did
Long story short.... Ha Ha....
I have had almost no issues with my 200 LR 2 V-8 4.0 ltr "Bosch" motor. I fixed a few things when I got it. 1 plug wire was bad, i bought a whole set but gave up after I replaced the one I knew was bad. It solved the problem. I think i bought plugs also but I gave up on those also. I fixed the cruise control (it works most of the time) , and probably a few other nitpicky things.
A couple weeks back I decided it needed an alternator because the old one would not start charging until you revved the engine over 2500 RPM (something I am loath to do to a cold motor) Anyway, the new one kicks in below 2000 so that was a partial fix. I have not replaced the battery yet because it seems to be in good shape. The positive terminal however has had a problem with corrosion which is a little unexplained. The battery seems to hold 12.7 just fine. The old alternator (when working) was charging at 14.2 Just about the same as the new one.
The engine light has been on for a while and my ultra gauge seemed to think it was an under voltage on start condition, or something like that, I can not remember the codes (hint) they are gone now anyway.
So, she stumbled on me a few times this week. A couple times at speed, and a time she died at a stop sign. Both times felt like bad fuel and cleared up right away. Today however, i was chauffeuring the wife to someplace, taking the long way as usual and she stumbled hard and I coundn't get back up to speed (50mmph on that road) I turned on my flashers and cringed at being that guy that hold up a little traffic (cuz I am that guy that throws a fit when somebody else holds up traffic ) Anyway, when I managed to pull over safely, I could only keep it running if I kept it above 1500 is RPM.
I checked my ultra gouge, 13.6 V 210.4 F And that is about all I know how to read on that thing. I could get it to run enough to "limp" It was not in limp mode, the 18 miles back home. The problem was intermittent. I did observe the thermostat opening and closing an the ultra gauge, so I know that was at least not letting me boil over. If I gave it the juice, it would lose power at about 200 RPM. If it died, it would start right back up and still run like ****, but it saved me a $250.00 tow bill and made it home (at 35 miles per hour in drive)
After a fine English pint or two, I dug into it, Fault code: P1184 Great, the most generic of fault codes. I like to troubleshoot he easiest things first, and given my prior experience with beamers, i know that "Bosch" Stands for Extremely Sensitive to Bad Connections, and Dying batteries. (look it up, it is a rough translation but close enough)
I did what I though was easy. A decent inspection of the wires and hoses, Clean the air filter, (needs new one) and reseated the MAF sensor connector. I discovered one bad clamp where the (plastic) intake air hose (upstream of the MAF) joined the metal manifold downstream of the throttle body. So far my experience with the LR is that the factory hose clamps are giving up and can cause some very strange symptoms. Anyway, I cobbled together the 2 smaller clamps I had to fit, stabbed myself in the finger 2ce, and go t wat I think is a good seal (German translation Gütentight) I checked all the connections on the air plenum (including the one I fixed with epoxy a while back. AND cleaned the air filter. (I think snorkels are bad for air filters)
I then pulled the suspect battery cable, (+) and checked the main (big) wire connection on the alternator IT IS IMPORTANT TO DISCONNECT THE + terminal BFORE attempting to tighten the nut on the back of the alternator! That nut seemed to be a little loose I think when I replaced the alternator last week I chickened out (while tightening) a little early) A quick wrestling match from there with an adjustable wrench (cuz NOTHING else will fit) I felt a little more confident that it was tight (as in Gütentight)
I (finally did a very thorough cleaning of the positive terminal before replacing Somebody had tried to install a copper ring terminal on the conically shaped "factory" terminal "snugging nut". That is probably what cause the excess corrosion.
Once cleaned, I reinstalled and snugged it up with an impact driver. It did not snap off or pull off so I think I got it close to specs.
I informed the wife that I would be test driving my repairs and she should stay close to her phone. I live almost a t the end of a long road in Alaska, and I believe in taking trails instead whenever possible. A half hour later, I was having so much fun, I forgot to call the wife and tell her that the problem(s) had been solved, so she called me.
In my test drive I discovered a few things.
1. She was running better than she had in a while (so was the rover)
2. The voltage seemed more stable (at 14.20)
3. The coolant temp maxes at about 210 and goes as low as 196.
4. The check engine light was out, and didn't come back on in 3 miles of trails and 15 miles of highway)
5. I had a renewed confidence in my ultra cool 'rover" and in my abilities to figure it all out (thanks to our community!)
Conclusion
I think I am going to replace the battery anyway. A dealer friend of mine offered me a brand new yellowtop for $200 the other day and that seems like a reasonable price to eliminate any angry pixy problems. A proper winch is on the shortlist and more battery power seems like a prudent investment.
I will buy a new air filter tomorrow, and probably turn my snorkel around.
Tomorrow, I will take a much longer trip and stress the systems a little to ensure I have found and solved the problem.
As slow as possible, as fast as necessary.
I have had almost no issues with my 200 LR 2 V-8 4.0 ltr "Bosch" motor. I fixed a few things when I got it. 1 plug wire was bad, i bought a whole set but gave up after I replaced the one I knew was bad. It solved the problem. I think i bought plugs also but I gave up on those also. I fixed the cruise control (it works most of the time) , and probably a few other nitpicky things.
A couple weeks back I decided it needed an alternator because the old one would not start charging until you revved the engine over 2500 RPM (something I am loath to do to a cold motor) Anyway, the new one kicks in below 2000 so that was a partial fix. I have not replaced the battery yet because it seems to be in good shape. The positive terminal however has had a problem with corrosion which is a little unexplained. The battery seems to hold 12.7 just fine. The old alternator (when working) was charging at 14.2 Just about the same as the new one.
The engine light has been on for a while and my ultra gauge seemed to think it was an under voltage on start condition, or something like that, I can not remember the codes (hint) they are gone now anyway.
So, she stumbled on me a few times this week. A couple times at speed, and a time she died at a stop sign. Both times felt like bad fuel and cleared up right away. Today however, i was chauffeuring the wife to someplace, taking the long way as usual and she stumbled hard and I coundn't get back up to speed (50mmph on that road) I turned on my flashers and cringed at being that guy that hold up a little traffic (cuz I am that guy that throws a fit when somebody else holds up traffic ) Anyway, when I managed to pull over safely, I could only keep it running if I kept it above 1500 is RPM.
I checked my ultra gouge, 13.6 V 210.4 F And that is about all I know how to read on that thing. I could get it to run enough to "limp" It was not in limp mode, the 18 miles back home. The problem was intermittent. I did observe the thermostat opening and closing an the ultra gauge, so I know that was at least not letting me boil over. If I gave it the juice, it would lose power at about 200 RPM. If it died, it would start right back up and still run like ****, but it saved me a $250.00 tow bill and made it home (at 35 miles per hour in drive)
After a fine English pint or two, I dug into it, Fault code: P1184 Great, the most generic of fault codes. I like to troubleshoot he easiest things first, and given my prior experience with beamers, i know that "Bosch" Stands for Extremely Sensitive to Bad Connections, and Dying batteries. (look it up, it is a rough translation but close enough)
I did what I though was easy. A decent inspection of the wires and hoses, Clean the air filter, (needs new one) and reseated the MAF sensor connector. I discovered one bad clamp where the (plastic) intake air hose (upstream of the MAF) joined the metal manifold downstream of the throttle body. So far my experience with the LR is that the factory hose clamps are giving up and can cause some very strange symptoms. Anyway, I cobbled together the 2 smaller clamps I had to fit, stabbed myself in the finger 2ce, and go t wat I think is a good seal (German translation Gütentight) I checked all the connections on the air plenum (including the one I fixed with epoxy a while back. AND cleaned the air filter. (I think snorkels are bad for air filters)
I then pulled the suspect battery cable, (+) and checked the main (big) wire connection on the alternator IT IS IMPORTANT TO DISCONNECT THE + terminal BFORE attempting to tighten the nut on the back of the alternator! That nut seemed to be a little loose I think when I replaced the alternator last week I chickened out (while tightening) a little early) A quick wrestling match from there with an adjustable wrench (cuz NOTHING else will fit) I felt a little more confident that it was tight (as in Gütentight)
I (finally did a very thorough cleaning of the positive terminal before replacing Somebody had tried to install a copper ring terminal on the conically shaped "factory" terminal "snugging nut". That is probably what cause the excess corrosion.
Once cleaned, I reinstalled and snugged it up with an impact driver. It did not snap off or pull off so I think I got it close to specs.
I informed the wife that I would be test driving my repairs and she should stay close to her phone. I live almost a t the end of a long road in Alaska, and I believe in taking trails instead whenever possible. A half hour later, I was having so much fun, I forgot to call the wife and tell her that the problem(s) had been solved, so she called me.
In my test drive I discovered a few things.
1. She was running better than she had in a while (so was the rover)
2. The voltage seemed more stable (at 14.20)
3. The coolant temp maxes at about 210 and goes as low as 196.
4. The check engine light was out, and didn't come back on in 3 miles of trails and 15 miles of highway)
5. I had a renewed confidence in my ultra cool 'rover" and in my abilities to figure it all out (thanks to our community!)
Conclusion
I think I am going to replace the battery anyway. A dealer friend of mine offered me a brand new yellowtop for $200 the other day and that seems like a reasonable price to eliminate any angry pixy problems. A proper winch is on the shortlist and more battery power seems like a prudent investment.
I will buy a new air filter tomorrow, and probably turn my snorkel around.
Tomorrow, I will take a much longer trip and stress the systems a little to ensure I have found and solved the problem.
As slow as possible, as fast as necessary.