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I have yet to have any issues burping a D2. I don't tilt it's nose up, I just add coolant, run it until I see it reach around 195F, turn it off, let it cool over night, top off the coolant the next morning, run it until 195F, then shut it off and let it cool once more. Then on the third attempt I remove the bleed screw on the T and carefully top it off until it can't take anymore (usually by then it barely takes anything) then I top off the coolant reservoir if needed, and take it for a drive. No waterfall sounds, no crazy temp spikes, nada zip nothing. I've done that process on 3 D2's now with great results.
the other day my old fan clutch and fan was spinning real slow on start up. but after half a minute or so it started spinning up. I thought these fans were suppose to spin up on start up and then slow down. I guess ill go back to the Autozone fan clutch. but would like to get the old fan installed on it. my ryobi 1/2 couldnt brake the allen bolts free, so i guess ill have to hit it with some wd-40 or something. others have a hard time braking the old fan bolts loose from the fan clutch? seems the OEM fan spins more evenly then the $25 autozone fan i have. although i never notice any unbalance in the autozone fan when iv used it.
the top of the plugs looked brand new. should i still do the vinegar run with the system or just run some more distilled water threw it and keep pulling the plugs and then do my coolant mix?
iv got some made up stuff going to my reservoir right now so this is why i cant lift it to high. but i did just disconnect them 30 mins ago and plugged them then i was able to lift the reservoir up and started poring a few cups of vinegar into the reservoir and pored more water into it as well. saw fluid coming out of the bleed screw and i closed everything back up and started up the truck and right away the heat started working. i let it run up to 190 and then i shut the engine down. ill pull the drain plugs tonight and do a few more water runs with it. I did notice my fan was not spinning much at all on start up today as well. it did finally get going. or is the fan clutch doing this because its 65 out side?
The fan should be locked and literally roaring at cold startup. Your fan clutch needs replacing. The coolant temps are going to shoot up at idle like stopping at traffic lights. Those fluctuations are terrible for the weak Rover block.
ok, so back in with the autozon ford fan and fan clutch.
Ya you want that fan sucking air like all get-out, screw the gas mileage. You live in Mesquite too? I'm on Town East Blvd. I have a HD fan clutch that sounds like a helicopter under there; need all you can get for these summers. That fan and how much/how efficiently it pulls air through the radiator at a standstill determines how hot the engine will get when the vehicle isn't in motion to otherwise move air through the radiator. Little fan, big job.
The difference between the OEM Fan Clutch and the Auto Zone Fan Clutch is very simple. The OEM is basically your Standard Fan Clutch and the Auto Zone unit is the Heavy Duty/Severe Duty Fan Clutch.
The Heavy Duty/Severe Duty Fan Clutch will stay engaged longer to cool longer vs the Standard Fan Clutch that will disengage earlier. Yes you will notice slightly more drag on the engine at lower speeds vs the Standard Fan Clutch, but it's doing it's job of keeping the engine cooler at idle and slower speeds. The Severe Duty Fan Clutch will normally disengage after about 55MPH or 2200-2400RPM's.
Before a completely cold startup even a good condition Standard Duty Fan Clutch should be pretty stiff to spin by hand. If you give it a spin and get more than half a rotation out of it, then it's worn out and time to be replaced.
Since I live in TX I can deal with a little drag during the summer months vs possibly over-heating in traffic. My H3 Alpha with the 5.3L V8 and mechanical Fan Clutch acted the same exact way as my LR's with the Severe Duty Fan Clutch.
IMHO the OEM Standard Duty Fan Clutches were fine for England Summer's but no where near strong enough for Texas.
Also completely off subject, but in your picture I notice you've still got the OEM plastic nipple going from the Intake to the Passenger Valve Cover Vent. I highly recommend replacing that with a Metal One. The 99-02 units have a very small hole in them which limits the flow of air, however I've noticed on 03-04 4.6L's that LR made them much much wider like the metal unit's I've slapped on both my 99 & 02 D2's. Both my plastic ones were brittle, and were about to break. You can get a replacement at Auto Zone for 2.99 or at any hardware store on the Air Tool Isle. It should be the 1/4 thread unit with a 3/8 Barb on it.
Also completely off subject, but in your picture I notice you've still got the OEM plastic nipple going from the Intake to the Passenger Valve Cover Vent. I highly recommend replacing that with a Metal One. The 99-02 units have a very small hole in them which limits the flow of air, however I've noticed on 03-04 4.6L's that LR made them much much wider like the metal unit's I've slapped on both my 99 & 02 D2's. Both my plastic ones were brittle, and were about to break. You can get a replacement at Auto Zone for 2.99 or at any hardware store on the Air Tool Isle. It should be the 1/4 thread unit with a 3/8 Barb on it.
when changing over to metal, is there any noticeable differences with anything?
11-27-2016, 10:46 AM
