I have a 2000 LR DII, after reading many of the post, i have completed the following maintenance:

Syn engine oil and filter changecleaned injectors and throttle body- seafoamABS modulator shuttle valve switch- new plug from postsNew bosch spark plugsK&N high flow air filter installed/ removed air boxCleaned engineRemoved cats and put two short mufflers in their place.Syn Transmission oil and filterDisconnected the throttle body water coolerInstalled Kenwood deckInstalled Sirus sat radioinstalled passenger side front o2 sensor- rest goodInstalled new 8mm spark plug wiresInstalled headlight bulbs - silver star- top oneReplaced abs modulator shuttle valve brake sensors.new wiper bladesnew 255 65R 16 Kumho Ven H KL51new key -needs programmedFront drilled,vented and sloted rotors and ceramic pads.Rear drilled and sloted rotors and ceramic pads.extra key fobnew power steering pumpnew water pumpchanged oil in transfer casechanged oil in rear and front axlewindows tintedfront drive shaft replacednew fan clutchnew radiator fannew thermostat/ flushed anti freeze

My question, what have i missed that would be important to complete as this is my daily driver.
thanks for your input.

 

IMHO you have been busy. Would suggest you consider reconnect before winter of the throttle body heater, a new gasket kit is only like $25. This prevents the throttle from icing up in cold conditions, and sticking open. While you might recognize this and react properly, if truck is being driven by others, might just be a loss of control with a jammed throttle. The Ultra Gauge is a handy gadget to add.

 

Just placed an order for an Ultra gage, should be here next week. I live in southern Indiana (Evansville area), we don't get that much bad weather, ususally only a couple of days. Getting ready to take Rover on a trip to Gulf Shores alabama in a few weeks with the family, just making sure everythings goods for the trip.
thanks
hunt

 

RAVE on a USB drive in the glove box - just in case....

 

Go to the top of this section and do my major service posted on a sticky, and make sure to do it all.
So, why did you remove the 2 cats, you know, you are now making the ECU run the engine full rich all the time, and as for the Crappy K&N, are you wanting to buy a new MAF soon, they don't work well on D2's.
You should have asked before you jumped in on a vehicle you are not familiar with.
Flushing the radiator at your mileage is a waste of time, if original, it is permanently restricted and needs to be replaced if you are running warm.
You installed new plugs, what about plug wires?

 

Mike, I also have a K&N air filter there, if this is crap, what do you recommend?
He has new radiator and new 8mm wires listed there, I was also wondering why will you remove the cats. I am not sure about running rich all the time since the O2 sensors are located before cats and they have been replaced too.

 

KN air filters tend to get small amounts of oil residue on either of the 2 MAF sensors and that fries them. I am a huge believer in using only factory paper filter, they have more and better filtering paper then the aftermarket ones at the parts store.
Running without cats causes the ECU to see no cleaning of the exhaust and it will code and run like crap. The other side of it is that beside being a Federal law, most states will not allow you to sell and or regester a vehicle that has had the cats or emission system tampered with.

 

To answer the questions: I have used K&N and UNI flat and cone filters for 20 years on different vehicles(Porsche,vw, audi, Jeep, chevy) and have never fired a MAP sensor. You do have to properly clean and oil the filter so not to introduce oil into the system but I love them. I my opinion they are a great improvement over the factory filters and they are reusable. I did notice an improvement when passing after installation. The cats were removed due to one being broken inside and the other one was building up heat abnormally. They were removed and short Magnaflow steel mufflers put in their place. Without the mufflers, it is very loud. This in turn balanced the O2 sensors, reading were close to normal specs. If the readings would have been off to much, you can get a spark plug extender, drill out the center, install O2 sensor on and then install on exhaust (old Audi/Porsche trick). I flushed the cooling system to be safe, currently no issues with engine temps. The truck runs great, no codes or lights (I have a system reader) when I pull my 14’ trailer with 3 Utility ATV’s I get around 14 mpg, no trailer I get 16+ mpg running around. Next long trip I will see what I get on the interstates with full people load. I will try to post some pictures of what I am talking about.

 

Oh boy here we go again with the K&N air filter debate. Believe Mike and anyone else when they tell you that the K&N air filter will damage your MAF. It probably won't happen right away but it will most likely happen sooner or later and as many of us know new Land Rover MAF's aren't cheap. Besides using a K&n air filter is not going to improve your performance by much. Replacing your spark plugs and using 8mm Magnecore plug wires will.

 

You may have run K&N's on other vehicles, none of them had the particular MAF we have on the D2, or the V.W's or other vehicles and they all have issues with either excess oil or dirt contamination, you may need to learn the hard way. As for removing the air box, any one who works on their D1's or D2's will tell you of the excessive heat in the engine compartment and your using a cone filter is just pumping a lot of hot air into an engine that doesn't need any more.
You need to hang around and see what others do to their engines and learn, cause right now you are using Jeep, Chevy, Audi and other mentaility on a Rover and it doesn't work, believe me others have tried and learned.