Cool. That seems like a solid plan, but I wouldn't reuse any of the bearings and I'd hesitate on reusing the old rings (they will still need to be hand blueprinted to the new motor, might as well use new).

That's the time to grind your exhaust headers to match the exhaust ports on your heads, too. Free power/gas mileage there.

 

I didn't think that the thin oil would have made all of that smoke, that's why I originally assumed the massive exhaust smoke and tailpipe dripping was from a cracked block or blown headgasket.

...but switching to conventional 10W40 stopped the massive exhaust smoking and the trickle of fluid out the tailpipe after just 30 seconds of idling which is a strong indicator that the 0 weight synthetic was getting through my *NEW* valve stem seals.

Just 7,000 miles on those new seals because I changed them myself during my rebuild.

I also blueprinted my piston ring gaps but I suppose the 0 weight synthetic could have been getting past the new piston rings, as well.




Oh, the smoke didn't begin immediately after the oil change in the first place, either. There was a day or two of driving where I didn't notice it, and then BOOM! Tons of exhaust smoke.

So like you, I didn't think the synthetic 0 weight oil was the problem at first.

But now I'm a believer.

 

I fixed my P1414 code today by cleaning out the SAI control valves with brake cleaner and making sure the vac lines were all intact

 

My engine never started, and all the bearings are new, so I will reuse them all.
I plan on new rings and honing the new block, as well as cleaning, and new freeze plugs.
Still on the fence if I want to put the time into grinding the exhaust manifolds. I need to measure them and mark them to see just how off they are, because it doesn't look like much.

 

Honestly, it's an afternoon's work. I dipped, sanded and used Manifold Dressing on mine, and that made it more work, but just porting it is not too time consuming if you have a good die grinder, and a carbide bit. Just sandpaper cartridges will take longer. I finished mine with sandpaper to smooth it a bit, but did not go for a mirror finish or anything. Also, if you don't port the exhaust ports on the head, you need to do even less.

 

What is manifold dressing?
I'de love to have some sort of coating that wouldn't burn off, just to keep the rust off.
I really wouldn't want to spend the money on ceramic coating, and also wonder if the extra heat that it doesn't allow to escape would be too much extra heat in the cats.
Wasn't it NoDoubt that wrapped his manifolds in heat tape, but had to remove it because the cats were glowing?
Is there no CollieRover porting by mail service offered yet??lol

You also are Not helping, only making my "to-do" list longer, lol!

 

There is countless info on porting out there, and I know how it's done, and have done it before.
But, I'm always interested in the details of how each person does there's.
What did you use to mark the material you removed?
I have used Prussian Blue years ago, but am sure there are lots of products.
And, if I open up the exhaust ports on the heads(I know too much is bad for several reasons)...then I have to grind more out of those hard cast iron manifolds.
I know the benefits, and am glad to hear good real world results on a LR engine from someone who's done it...but still seems like alot of work.
I have carbide bits for my Dremel, and I think that would be quick and easy on the aluminum heads. But, on cast iron, I think they would work well, but not last nearly as long, and that it would take a long time to do.
Especially since this is really a once you start it, you have to follow through and finish it type job.

 

One more thing.
CollieRover, didn't you have your upper and lower intake and valve covers powder coated?
If so, did you notice any increase in operating temperatures, even a degree or 2?
I have always read that painting or coating aluminum reduces it's ability to dissapate heat.
I'm not overly concerned about underhood looks, as long as things are clean, but wouldn't mind the aluminum not oxidizing and the engine be covered in white powder.
It's very humid where I live, and even after the truck has only been sitting a couple days, the engine gets covered in oxidation before the moisture can be burned off.

 

I think he painted everything, not PC'ed but i could be wrong. I personally wouldnt paint anything alum for the heat dissipation issues that could occur

 

I tend to agree, but then again, motorcycle/atv mfg's have been painting aluminum engines for decades.
So I'm curious if it makes a measurable difference in the actual temperature.