The fix
#21
01-07-2019 | 02:51 PM
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Sixpack577 (01-07-2019)
#22
01-07-2019 | 03:02 PM
One more thing.
CollieRover, didn't you have your upper and lower intake and valve covers powder coated?
If so, did you notice any increase in operating temperatures, even a degree or 2?
I have always read that painting or coating aluminum reduces it's ability to dissapate heat.
I'm not overly concerned about underhood looks, as long as things are clean, but wouldn't mind the aluminum not oxidizing and the engine be covered in white powder.
It's very humid where I live, and even after the truck has only been sitting a couple days, the engine gets covered in oxidation before the moisture can be burned off.
CollieRover, didn't you have your upper and lower intake and valve covers powder coated?
If so, did you notice any increase in operating temperatures, even a degree or 2?
I have always read that painting or coating aluminum reduces it's ability to dissapate heat.
I'm not overly concerned about underhood looks, as long as things are clean, but wouldn't mind the aluminum not oxidizing and the engine be covered in white powder.
It's very humid where I live, and even after the truck has only been sitting a couple days, the engine gets covered in oxidation before the moisture can be burned off.
Painted the top end including brackets, no increase in temps, wipes clean. Makes me happy looking at it.
Best results were from using only paint, no primer/clear, bake at 300 for 30 minute after painting if u can. Otherwise it cures in the engine bay.
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Sixpack577 (01-07-2019)
#23
01-07-2019 | 03:21 PM
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,388
Likes: 483
I used Duplicolor engine paint. I mainly did it because the aluminum is just so dang dirty and impossible to clean.
Painted the top end including brackets, no increase in temps, wipes clean. Makes me happy looking at it.
Best results were from using only paint, no primer/clear, bake at 300 for 30 minute after painting if u can. Otherwise it cures in the engine bay.
Just depends how fast I try to get it back together.
Paint is no good in the cold, and even spraying in my garage with a heater and respirator, I have to open the door a little for ventilation...and it gets cold in there fast.
I could bead blast the parts and work, and use a high temp clear or silver.
What the heck right, these things eat money anyway, lol.
#24
01-07-2019 | 03:41 PM
What is manifold dressing?
I'de love to have some sort of coating that wouldn't burn off, just to keep the rust off.
I really wouldn't want to spend the money on ceramic coating, and also wonder if the extra heat that it doesn't allow to escape would be too much extra heat in the cats.
Wasn't it NoDoubt that wrapped his manifolds in heat tape, but had to remove it because the cats were glowing?
Is there no CollieRover porting by mail service offered yet??lol
You also are Not helping, only making my "to-do" list longer, lol!
I'de love to have some sort of coating that wouldn't burn off, just to keep the rust off.
I really wouldn't want to spend the money on ceramic coating, and also wonder if the extra heat that it doesn't allow to escape would be too much extra heat in the cats.
Wasn't it NoDoubt that wrapped his manifolds in heat tape, but had to remove it because the cats were glowing?
Is there no CollieRover porting by mail service offered yet??lol
You also are Not helping, only making my "to-do" list longer, lol!
#25
01-07-2019 | 03:47 PM
There is countless info on porting out there, and I know how it's done, and have done it before.
But, I'm always interested in the details of how each person does there's.
What did you use to mark the material you removed?
I have used Prussian Blue years ago, but am sure there are lots of products.
And, if I open up the exhaust ports on the heads(I know too much is bad for several reasons)...then I have to grind more out of those hard cast iron manifolds.
I know the benefits, and am glad to hear good real world results on a LR engine from someone who's done it...but still seems like alot of work.
I have carbide bits for my Dremel, and I think that would be quick and easy on the aluminum heads. But, on cast iron, I think they would work well, but not last nearly as long, and that it would take a long time to do.
Especially since this is really a once you start it, you have to follow through and finish it type job.
But, I'm always interested in the details of how each person does there's.
What did you use to mark the material you removed?
I have used Prussian Blue years ago, but am sure there are lots of products.
And, if I open up the exhaust ports on the heads(I know too much is bad for several reasons)...then I have to grind more out of those hard cast iron manifolds.
I know the benefits, and am glad to hear good real world results on a LR engine from someone who's done it...but still seems like alot of work.
I have carbide bits for my Dremel, and I think that would be quick and easy on the aluminum heads. But, on cast iron, I think they would work well, but not last nearly as long, and that it would take a long time to do.
Especially since this is really a once you start it, you have to follow through and finish it type job.
Not much to be done on the intake side of the head really. Some decent removal on the head exhaust ports and the most material I removed was the exhaust manifold. If I was to only do one spot thatnwoild be it.
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No Doubt (01-08-2019)
#26
01-07-2019 | 03:48 PM
Thanks for the info, I may try it.
Just depends how fast I try to get it back together.
Paint is no good in the cold, and even spraying in my garage with a heater and respirator, I have to open the door a little for ventilation...and it gets cold in there fast.
I could bead blast the parts and work, and use a high temp clear or silver.
What the heck right, these things eat money anyway, lol.
Just depends how fast I try to get it back together.
Paint is no good in the cold, and even spraying in my garage with a heater and respirator, I have to open the door a little for ventilation...and it gets cold in there fast.
I could bead blast the parts and work, and use a high temp clear or silver.
What the heck right, these things eat money anyway, lol.
#27
02-07-2019 | 09:57 AM
Thread Starter
|
TReK
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 394
From: kitchener, canada
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Daytoman (02-07-2019)
#28
02-08-2019 | 07:24 AM
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 264
From: StL, MO
was getting a recurring Camshaft Sensor Code. knowing this code could sometimes indicate the CrankShaft Sensor instead, i changed that. continued to get the Camshaft Sensor Code. Changed the Camshaft Sensor. continued to get the Camshaft Sensor Code.
happened to notice that the wire loom containing the wiring for the Camshaft Sensor had come loose and was resting against the exhaust manifold. one of the wires for the Camshaft Sensor had burned all the way through and was hanging in two separate lengths.
i tracked down a similar sized wire that i had lying around, cut it to length, soldered it in place and then used liquid electrical tape to seal it all up. put new wire loom wrap around all the wires and zip-tied them out of the way. no codes and trouble free since.
happened to notice that the wire loom containing the wiring for the Camshaft Sensor had come loose and was resting against the exhaust manifold. one of the wires for the Camshaft Sensor had burned all the way through and was hanging in two separate lengths.
i tracked down a similar sized wire that i had lying around, cut it to length, soldered it in place and then used liquid electrical tape to seal it all up. put new wire loom wrap around all the wires and zip-tied them out of the way. no codes and trouble free since.
#29
02-08-2019 | 09:24 AM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 381
Likes: 109
From: Boiling Springs, SC
Cruise control not working - hoses new - button works - diaphragm test was good - replaced the vacuum pump - $25 used and fixed the problem
Not "fixing" anything necessarily, but something mentioned here but rarely hear folks actually doing - grease everything.
I took off all of my door panels, including the rear door - greased everything I could get to - hinges, locks, windows, the window felt tracks, everything I could see or reach.
Vet MB mechanic recommended dielectric grease for the felt strips - used a long cotton swab
Not "fixing" anything necessarily, but something mentioned here but rarely hear folks actually doing - grease everything.
I took off all of my door panels, including the rear door - greased everything I could get to - hinges, locks, windows, the window felt tracks, everything I could see or reach.
Vet MB mechanic recommended dielectric grease for the felt strips - used a long cotton swab