FIXED!!!! Need some help, another no-start episode...
In theory you could backprobe the harness at the ECU pins to connect the noid light there, since you'll have the ECU area open anyway. It would take some custom wiring as the noid lights just have pins that you stick in the injector plug, alligator clips or something. I'm not sure would is more of a hassle but taking the manifold off can be a PITA.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 195
From: Central NJ
I could not find the photos, probably deleted them. But once you open the BCU, there is a white 1cmx2cm resistor in the middle. Looks like a white plastic block, mine had an obvious chip that I did not think mattered. I think it is a ceramic material. I saw it when I very first tackled the window issue, but assumed it did not affect the windows. The repair shop tested it, I forget the numbers, but he definitely said that was the issue. It should be pretty obvious once you open the BCU.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 397
From: SE Washington State
Lisle (#27800) makes a noid light with a long wire lead and suction cup to mount on windshield, so one guy can see it while turning the key. I just ordered one from Amazon, but O'Rielly's stocks them for a bit more. Also comes with adjustable width probes to fit universal connectors. That will verify injectors.
To verify spark, set an old spark plug on engine metal, then connect whichever spark plug wire is easy to get to (maybe #6). Should see or hear bright sparks while cranking. Safe to do iff no fuel spilled around. Those in-line spark testers can be hard to see.
To verify spark, set an old spark plug on engine metal, then connect whichever spark plug wire is easy to get to (maybe #6). Should see or hear bright sparks while cranking. Safe to do iff no fuel spilled around. Those in-line spark testers can be hard to see.
Last edited by JohnZo; May 22, 2025 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Hear hear
Lisle (#27800) makes a noid light with a long wire lead and suction cup to mount on windshield, so one guy can see it while turning the key. I just ordered one from Amazon, but O'Rielly's stocks them for a bit more. Also comes with adjustable width probes to fit universal connectors. That will verify injectors.
To verify spark, set an old spark plug on engine metal, then connect whichever spark plug wire is easy to get to (maybe #6). Should see or hear bright sparks while cranking. Safe to do iff no fuel spilled around. Those in-line spark testers can be hard to see.
To verify spark, set an old spark plug on engine metal, then connect whichever spark plug wire is easy to get to (maybe #6). Should see or hear bright sparks while cranking. Safe to do iff no fuel spilled around. Those in-line spark testers can be hard to see.
Kind of a silly question without a corresponding code being present... but camshaft sensor? Is it possible that's causing all this? Definitely not the right price to just throw at the car and see like some of the others have been.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 279
Likes: 64
From: Virginia
It is possible. Unplug the camshaft sensor to test. The RAVE says the car should be able to run without it.
1. This needs to be amended actually. I'm going to get a pressure tester on the fuel rail again today to verify this. I think me thinking the fuel pump was spraying was a false positive generated by me using the Nanocom to force the fuel relay on (to test the fuel pump itself was operational) but I need to test pressure while cranking still.
And totally agreed, I'm not a huge fan of the parts cannon approach either haha. Parts are thankfully cheap for these relatively speaking, and this being one of our daily drivers, at this point I figure any parts I throw at it will replace very old parts and only increase reliability, OR as you mention, just add to the spares inventory, which is also fine since we plan on having this truck forever and as we all know... some parts are becoming pretty scarce.
Thanks again for loaning me the ECU/BCU. Any leads on a place I can purchase a set of my own too? Even just to have on-hand for testing in the future.
And totally agreed, I'm not a huge fan of the parts cannon approach either haha. Parts are thankfully cheap for these relatively speaking, and this being one of our daily drivers, at this point I figure any parts I throw at it will replace very old parts and only increase reliability, OR as you mention, just add to the spares inventory, which is also fine since we plan on having this truck forever and as we all know... some parts are becoming pretty scarce.
Thanks again for loaning me the ECU/BCU. Any leads on a place I can purchase a set of my own too? Even just to have on-hand for testing in the future.
Welp, the loaner BCU/ECU didn't change anything. Still no start. (again, thanks so much Extinct for letting me borrow it!)
There's really nothing left to replace other than having to assume new parts are bad? I guess I could swap out the engine bay fuse box for good measure?
There's really nothing left to replace other than having to assume new parts are bad? I guess I could swap out the engine bay fuse box for good measure?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 397
From: SE Washington State
Well, we still have not heard the results of testing with the spark tester or the noid light. Maybe the testing was done, but did not publish the results?
Easy to check the engine compartment fuse box with a voltmeter on the downstream side of each fuse.
Easy to check the engine compartment fuse box with a voltmeter on the downstream side of each fuse.