Started car this morning and got flashing M and S lights and the D light on the shift console flashing. No "check engine" light. No noticeable difference in driving--about 2 miles and was able to put in reverse to park, but noticed a slight "jolt" when I put in reverse. Battery died about 2 mos. ago and AAA installed a new one. Thoughts? Had new tires installed this weekend, as well as oil change, but seems unlikely that'd have any effect. 2001 Disco II, 79k miles

 

I had that and swapped the battery. It's the first sign of undervoltage. You could charge it but it'll just die again. It usually goes away after a bit because the battery re-charges. What MAY wind up happening is the vehicle will go into "limp" mode. It takes a few things before it changes gears but voltage is the first. Pretty sweet supercomputer with wheels, huh?

 

Oh, I forgot to mention that had a dead battery about 2 months ago and AAA installed a new one. Could that be the culprit?

 

Could be. You'd want to start there first. I finally bought an Optima Red-top battery. Haven't had any problems since. AND it's got a lifetime warranty. It happened to me twice before I finally found a good answer. The other problem is easy to fix also. The selector that connects to the transmission is housed in a plastic box that can get corroded. Not hard to fix either. But that's later, if the battery doesn't do it.

The Land Rover is VERY particular about it's voltage. Good luck!

 

Wow...a new battery can get zapped that quickly? Very particular, indeed! Thanks for the tip. Should I just take it to Autozone or similar for free testing?

 

Sure that's a good place to go and get a free test.

 

If it's not the right battery it can. Mine sat for over a month and died while I was gone. Thanks to the wife for not cranking it, anyway... You could get it tested but it'll be just UNDER volts and they might not think much of it. Does it come and go or are the lights always blinking? In either case your battery is going or is dead (in Land Rover terms). Autozone can test it for you though.

 

Battery, battery cables (both ends), and XYZ switch are possibles. The M&S lights on normally brings on the check engine light, except in one case -


MIL = OFF
M&S = ON

 

What he said... The XYZ switch is what I was referring to if the battery doesn't fix it.

 

Thanks. I'll hit the auto store on the way home to have voltage tested and see where we're at. What should an acceptable range of voltage be? I have a scanner, so will also give that a go when I get home.