I guess what I was getting at about the vinegar was if anyone here has performed this trick... Like how much vinegar, how long they ran it in the system, any good results, etc...

 

I'm fairly certain the reason for your higher temps is the 195 degree fan controller. That's the first thing I'd replace.

The vinegar flush is an interesting idea. I have a beater van I plan to flush soon, and I was thinking TSP, but maybe a heavy dose of vinegar is a good idea. Do you drive with it or just dump it in, run it a bit, and let it sit til cool?

 

Drained/flushed my D2 with water, added one gallon of white vinegar and topped off with water. Drove mine for 100 miles or so over a couple of days. Drained/flushed with just water a couple of more times letting it get up to temp and circulate well.

TSP is supposed to another good alternative to use. I'd originally thought about using powdered Cascade brand dish washer detergent which some recommend but opted for the gentler vinegar since there didn't seem to be any built up deposits or debris in the system.

The downside to using any of the automotive or alternate flushes is they will occasionally remove some deposits that may actually be plugging small leaks. They have been known to flush/clean some stop-leak like products out of a system.

Also a good idea to check your thermostat for debris after a flush.
......

 

Interesting. My van's radiator has some pretty heavy build up, so I'll probly try Cascade with TSP and see if I can clean it out a bit.

 

I just switched out the Motorad 180 to a genuine grey 180 Thermostat from Lucky 8.

Temps in Traffic got to 202, but stayed at 198 most of the time. When driving on the highway or around town not in traffic temps were 188 to 190.

So the genuine LR 180 Thermostat made a huge difference as the lowest temps I would see were 200 on the highway or around town and the highest were 204-206.

Seeing is believing. Really wish I had started with the genuine 180 thermostat. I got fooled with an "OEM" ad.

 

It can actually be done even cheaper. I used 1) 1-1/2 spa coupling to join the old bypass hose with the hook in it to the lower radiator outlet hose and 1-1/4 coupling to join pieces of an extra OEM top hose into the top assembly. I didn't even use the BMW hose I ordered as part of the kit. The only thing I would have done differently and still intend to do is remove the lower 1-1/2 coupling and replace with a 1-1/2 x 3 long nipple (as they call it) to relieve some tension out of my lower assembly. I'm also going to replace the top hose assembly with a flexible, stainless steel kit so that I can get all 4 bends within a single hose and it will also look amazing! Obviously cost of mod goes up but the install will look professional instead of "pieced together."

 

Ok, so now that the weather has heated up, so have the temps. I went from the Evans back to Peak, and that had no bearing on the fact I was getting up to 220.

Spoke to Flex-a-Lite and I have determined that the Black Magic 180 just does not pull enough air. Thankfully I can get a refund from amazon.

I saved my original fan so will reluctantly go back to that set up for now.

I am disappointed, because it runs really nicely without the fan clutch on. Temp is first priority though.

 

You can probably get the ford 3.8l fan with the money you get back from the flex-a-lite and still have money left over if you wanted to stay electric. Hope I haven't already posted that in this thread, sorry if I did.

 

I am looking around. Have you done this? And if you did what controller did you get, and how did you work it being a two speed motor?

 

reading the specs on this fan:

* The most powerful single electric fans available
* Provide full radiator coverage for many vehicles
* One-piece, rugged nylon shroud
* Shrouded fans create 45-50 percent higher heat transfer than cage fans of same performance
* Rigid bracket mounting system, no through-core mounting
* High-torque, high-rpm electric motor
* Installation instructions with wiring diagrams in English, French, and Spanish
* Provide consistent cooling, regardless of engine rpm


one would assume that this unit would get the job done. do you have a photo of this as it was mounted in your LR? I'm trying to find something that will outperform the OEM radiator and Hayden HD fan/clutch. I doubt anything short of an aftermarket performance radiator will cool it any better. I know the factory cooling system falls short on mine because temps don't want to drop on the highway/driving at moderate speed. Its nearly 100 F in TX now, with heat index near 110. I have noticed this in regards to coolant temp.


Have you guys seen this?? unbelievably expensive.
Icebox Radiator by Congleton Service for Land Rover | eBay