there I go trying to read again..I should know better by now haha

edit: the electric pump coupled with an e-fan is rather intriguing for those of us at high elevations in the summer especially. Would be able to control the pump/fan to run for a few minutes after shutting truck down to help keep temps down (think turbo timer for boosted cars only the engine wouldn't need to be running). I run my overflow caps loose all year except for summer I boil over a few minutes after I turn the car off...usually only when it's 95+ degrees but that heat plus the elevation it's not happy.

 

Interested in how this turns out.

 

My goal is to get max temp to measured temp + 80. Stock is measured temp + 100. Measured temp, which includes ground temp, often measures 120+ in Palm Springs, and Death Valley can measure 130+. The recorded temps are lower, because those are adjusted to air temp only, but the ground temp affects my vehicle. The temps are uncomfortably high in my opinion when the measured temp is greater than 110. So new radiator, new water pump, new fan and fan clutch and hoses. We'll see how she does this Summer.

 

I've seen guys in Australia and Africa using these inline with the mechanical pump. It's triggered when temps get too high or manually on demand:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcw-dc-8970

 

It would be nice to trigger the Aux fan for a couple minutes

 

Well I ended up not installing the new water pump as I didn’t need to because I’m an idiot and had installed the new thermostat incorrectly.

So as that relates to the most current input on this conversation, I can’t get the temp over 190 when driving and it won’t go over 195 idling at a stop light. Now ambient was only a bit over 70F, but I’ve not even added Water Wetter at I’m over 7k feet and even doing the multiple hills at those elevations, it won’t go over 186. All I’ve done is a Nissens radiator, 180 soft spring thermostat and 50/50 green stuff. And a total half a$$ed bleed job to boot. I’m expecting when ambient gets to 90-100 this summer and running the AC those temps will go up, but I’m thinking a well serviced and fresh cooling system is all you really need. I ran Moab in my last Disco when ambient was 110F+ running the AC and it only got to 208 on the gauge.

I’ll obviously put the Flowkooler in when the existing one tanks and maybe even the next time I’m in the cooling system, but I honestly don’t see a need for any elaborate modifications if the system is in good shape.

 

Had my flowkooler installed two days ago and filled back up with green coolant/water wetter.
170 degree inline thermostat

ambient temp 84-86

trip 200 miles nashville to bham


temps today:

181-183 at 75mph (186-188 before)
177 at 50-60 on a bright and sunny day (183-186 before)

earlier this week 177.8 around town 183 at lights

190 stuck in traffic after driving 75mph for 3 hours in 84 degree weather (194-203 before)

overall, temps are 3-5 degrees better over before in each scenario.

This pump does cool slightly better, but the biggest difference is it will hold steady far easier. Even at 80mph it only crept to 185 degrees when it’d be 190-194 before

Not sure how much water wetter affected it, but overall it was a good purchase. Definitley recommend.

monitored via wired ultragauge.

 

Ive been chasing a warm running engine for a while. Stock 98 D1 with a flanged liner 4.6. does fine until the AC is on, then eventually climbs to 210 and I shut it off

I ordered one of these and started to flush the block with DI water and installed a cheap chinese filter on a spare hose to see if it caught anything. With the old pump it the sight glass showed no indication of flow until the engine was reved up. I swapped the flowkooler on just now and it is flowing at idle like Id expect it to.

Old pump was bought about 2 years ago when the new engine went in. Its got the stamped impeller. Ill see how it does while driving it this week, but I think I replaced a junk waterpump so it wont be a fair comparison. I seem to remember they used to have solid impellers or at least a different design, but that was when these things were new, before the britpart junk took over the world

 

going to be installing my flowkooler today. Do I just use the provided gasket? Or RTV? I was gonna put RTV on both sides of the gasket and slap it on but I don't want to mess this up

 

I think most have recommended and I plan to: a thin layer of RTV on both sides, hand tighten the bolts and let sit overnight then tighten to spec next day.