I had to take the front drive shaft off to install my 2 inch lift for the same reason. I rounded one of the bolts to the frame brace so i couldn't get it off. Oh well...

 

I removed mine.

 

Would not remove brace, if you need additional clearance call Bill at Rovertym, he either has what you need on the shelf or can make it for you. Website www.rovertym.com

 

Mike, how thick of a spacer is required when dropping that crossmember? is 1" enough? im not sure how much the driveshaft hits it when fully articulated. im getting OME 779/762 springs, and OME Nitro Sport shocks today, which i heard are longer than normal OME shocks. i rounded off one of the bolts from the crossmember so ill have to do some work to get it off and get spacers under it.

ill just disconnect the driveshaft for install for now, and worry about getting off the crossmember afterwards, then mock up some spacers.

 

I stripped one of the bolt heads on mine removing it also. I heated it, then hammered on a smaller 12pt sae socket. That was able to get it off. If not, you could try jb welding a socket onto the head, or welding a nut onto the head.

I removed mine, because I also have a steel winch bumper. 100lbs of steel being a foot in front if it will prevent frame twist more than that bent piece of rectangle.

 

You have been around long enough to know, or should know that you loose frame strength by removing the cross member, put it back on, use spacers if you have to. I run a near 3" lift and have never hit mine.