Hi Guys, I have a 2003 with just over 123k miles on it. The truck is running great and I've done a lot to it (just put in a new radiator, water pump, t-stat, hoses) but the main issue facing the truck is frame corrosion. This Disco has spent its life in Cleveland, Ohio where they heavily salt the winter roads. When I bought the truck, close to 2 years ago now, I had the frame inspected by a welder and tech. One weak spot was found right next to the CAT (appeared the heat and a lot to do with the issue). I had that spot repaired, and the rest of the frame checked out just fine. Now I'd like to clean and coat the rest of the chassis before more issues arise (or at least delay the corrosion for as long as I can).

I looked through the stickies and used the search function and didn't see much. For now, the plan would be use a grinder with a wire brush to clean it, but any tips on products to use to coat and perhaps even convert the rust (like Rust-Mort) would be appreciated.

 

Muggs wrote: "This Disco has spent its life in Cleveland, Ohio where they heavily salt the winter roads." As you know, that is precisely why the majority of vehicles have a short life span due to the cancer like eating away of metal, due to salt use on roads, so to give more life to vehicles not yet damaged beyond repair, the damn salt needs to be completely cleaned from the metal surfaces, especially from corners and cracks where it hides. To do that, extensive pressure washing, preferably using hot water, and a lot of it, in an attempt to rid the metal of the salt build up is essential.
After that, the vehicle needs to sit until it is bone dry. Now, apply a special "paint," that seals completely, converts any rust, making it harmless, and gives the surface a hard rock like surface that does not crack, peel, or otherwise come off. That "paint" is Por15. I have never seen anything like it before; it is fantastic for this purpose. Expensive, but worth it.

 

Thanks for the reply. I did not think of the power washing idea. I will be that, grind with the wire brush, wash again and use the Por15. Gonna be a dirty job, but I love the Disco

 

I have heard good things about POR-15 but I havent actually used it on anything

 

Saturnine wrote: "I have heard good things about POR-15 but I havent actually used it on anything" I have been rebuilding Rover cars and Land Rovers since the early 1960s, and have used, through the years, numerous brands and kinds of paint, fiberglass, etc., but when I first used Por 15, I was sooo surprised. Hard as a rock, tough as hell, stands up to anything, seals like fiberglass or epoxy, lasts forever, if used correctly. One fault, I understand, is that it is destroyed somewhat by ultraviolet from sun, so they recommend an over-coating. However, I admit that I cheated sometimes, and overlooked that fault, hoping that sun wouldn't be much of a problem on vehicle frames, so used no overcoat on Por15, and never seemed to have a problem with it. It is vastly superior to any sort of paint that I have ever used before.

 

Por-15 tips
http://www.por15.com/
1st off you just wanna get the pint size can of por-15, a pint goes a long way. do not get the flat black por-15 it dries in different uneven shades for whatever reason, just get the regular por-15. instead of buying the metal ready from por-15 go to home depot and get a product called "a must for rust" it's the same thing, a metal etcher, but cheaper from home depot. For wire wheels just use what you got in the garage, i went thru at least 3 and a drill, DO wear safety glasses. what i also found that worked great was the scotch sanding discs you put on the drill, just use the course ones. now after you take the frame to bare metal take some course sandpaper n scratch up the metal so por-15 has something to grab onto, don't worry bout the scratches por-15 is self leveling and will cover the scratches. after that’s done make sure the frame is grease free, i spray it w/brake cleaner then spray a rag w/brake cleaner n wipe it down and then when it's CLEAN then i put the "must for rust" or "metal ready" into a spray bottle and spray it on the frame good(application also goes for other steel parts) and let it sit on the frame for 30min, you'll notice the frame will turn like a rust color, that’s what etching does. Don't use metal ready or a "must for Rust" if painting non metal parts. Then rinse w/water and when completely dry yer ready to brush on the por-15. just get some brushes that don't shed a lot and just brush it on and don't worry bout brush strokes as por-15 self levels itself out. You only need 1 coat of por15. it takes anywhere from 10 to 24hrs to dry, most people like to topcoat while the por15 is still tacky which makes sense but i've applied it w/the por15 dry which i've had no paint peeling so it's worked for me.
NEVER EVER REMOVE THE LID OF POR15. Drill a small hole in the lid near the edge n another in the opposite side of the lid. one hole is a vent so you can pour from the opposite hole, don't pour to much as a little goes a long way, you can always pour more into the mug. Plug both holes w/sheet metal screws that fit tightly and seal, give the can a roll to coat the screws inside to help seal for longer shelf life, over 10 yr plus. latex gloves are a must. keep using the same container(i use a coffee mug w/ a handle) to paint from, you'll find por15 will harden like a brick so i just pour more on top of that the next time i por15 something until the mug is hardened full. Make sure you get fresh air to breath, that stuff is nasty. I always sandblast my parts 1st except for the frame if your doing a frameon. For the frame i just wire wheeled it and sanded it where i had to. Before you pour it into a coffee mug for painting, DO NOT SHAKE the can, it creates bubbles, just roll the can every which way smoothly for a couple minutes to mix. hope this helps.
Still have to do from the Firewall up. I did the Frame and Suspension parts on my 73 Vette 12 yrs ago and it still looks like the day i did it and I drive the Vette a lot in fair weather.

 

The information shared on this site is nothing short of amazing. I appreciate the time and info, guys. I plan to do this in the spring when the weather warms up for good here in Ohio. I'll post some before and after pictures.

 

Great info here. Im also doing mine in the spring

 

Take off the rear bumper and pass one of these through your frame (chassis) and you'd be surprised how much crud and rust comes out. Ensure the frame drain holes are clear afterwards and fire in some chassis wax.

 

Side note to your issue with frame rust near cat: all 3 of my trucks are weak there. Seems that's the #1 spot to rust out on discos