Mike,
I am actually not that bad.
I changed the filter housing O-ring, changed transmission oil, opened up the SAI pump only to find out that the filter was looking brand new, installed a new steering wheel control, old one was broken, installed powersteering pump and all the hoses in my previous discovery and changed plugs on my SL500, which is truely not easy, you don't see any thing working blind.
I don't mind taking it to a mechanik, but I have to yet find a trustworthy one and if it is only once in a while.
The last one did not change the O-rings on Power steering box, even though I got the O-ring from the dealer and give it to him, I paid for rdiator flush and i am 99% sure he did not flush the fluid, since I still have the same F..ing orange fluid in there and they usually charge extra for DexCool, which he did not and I also have second thoughts about brake fluid flush, since there is no traces of any type of fluid being flushed there, because I just installed 4 new tires.
Aside rom that every time I took it to mechanik, I spent quite abit of time, in which I could have done it my self if things would have gone smoothly. $200 here and $200 there also adds up really quickly.
I think I could do the front axle seal, but i will not touch the transfer case, not enough space to work unless the car is on a lift.
Here are the pictures, please also look at the filter housing, could this be an indication of how gunked up my engine might be?
Regards

 

on your cooling flush, one of the house brands Advanced or Autozone is orange also I forget which one.
The first time I started pouring it I almost Sh*t myself think it was Dexcool. I read the bottle like 5 times to make sure it wasnt dexcool.
So he may have changed it but used a cheaper store brand, hopfully thats the case and the guy just isnt a crook.

 

re: how gunked up engine could be

Yes. Infrequent oil change, running way too hot way too long, running oil not suited to the purpose (cheap $9.99 oil change oil), etc., all have their sludge and varnish buildup along with cheap gas, plugged up PCV vent system not letting vapors be burned off, etc. Previous owners must all be tightwads when it comes to maintenance, or they actually don't maintain, they repair after failure. Seafoam and other oil cleaners can help (BG 44, kersoscene, GUNK, ATF, etc.) - but with DIY be prepared to deal with blocked oil pickup if you are too aggressive.

 

hhalimi,

once you remove the drive shaft you will find a big *** nut inside of the flange, once the flange is removed you can replace the seal. I beleive the nut is a nylock that is crimple over so you may need a new one check the rave.
On your transfer case have you tried White shepard to see it that will seal it before you go pulling it apart, a lot of people on the site seem to have good luck with it on minor transfer case leaks.

 

It's also weird how it totally jumps in front of you when you are driving past.

 

Thanks for the reply, Rave's manual says

Using

Remove pinion flange.

Using a suitable lever, remove pinion oil seal.

Take care to avoid damage to oil seal

recess.

Using

LRT-51-010 , fit pinion oil seal.

Fit pinion flange and securing bolt and washer.
Using LRT- 51-003, restrain pinion flange and

tighten pinion flange bolt to 100 Nm (74 lbf.ft).

I don't know what that LRT-51-003 is?

The LRT-51-010 is probably the tool sold at HF for $20

I did put 1/3 of white shepared in transfer case when changing the oil, it did not stop the leak yet, maybe I should just wait a little longer and see.

 

all you need is a piece of steel with two bolt that fit thru two of the bolt holes on the flange to keep it from turning when your backing the nut off.
I would not think it a problem if you using air or have the wheels on the ground.
If not make the handle long enough that it bottom out against part of the truck so you can use all you power to brake the pinion nut.

 

Thanks for your help, I get it now, I thought I had to hold something inside from not turning.
The manual also calls for raising the front of the car and I have no idea why?

 

the manual is written for dealers have you ever seen anyone at a dealer work on their back, i surprised it does say raise the vehicle to change the battery

 

Nope