Front Prop shaft replacement
The bolt patterns make it physically impossible to install backwards. Marking takes almost no time at all and you never know when you might want to put the old shaft back in. I've had a run of bad experiences with u-joints and have rebuilt my OEM propshaft and swapped it back in while I rebuilt my Tom Woods shaft. A word of caution; don't trust an oil change shop to properly grease your propshaft u-joints, even if you give them proper instructions. Unless you are standing under the truck watching them do it, they won't get it right.
Not that it's important but I do two marks on each of the axle flanges, 3 marks on the front end of the cardan and 4 on the back end and then 5 on the transmission flanges and then spray paint them or varnish them for longevity.
Took it out this afternoon. Pretty straight forward other than the ice melting and dripping in my eyeballs and a smashed thumb. I assume since the rear bolts can't come out, it's ok just to let them hang there?
I don't even trust an Oil Lube to change my oil. I change the Rover's diapers and use the 301 Mobile filter, I def wouldn't trust them to grease my nips.
I just tried to pull my 240 Volvo out of the drive with the Rover, what a difference, it couldn't pull the Swede out. Then I tried with the Audi A4, no go.
Guess the Volvo sits until spring time. Wish I would've thought about pulling it out day before I pulled the front shaft out of the Rover..Deeerrrrr.
I just tried to pull my 240 Volvo out of the drive with the Rover, what a difference, it couldn't pull the Swede out. Then I tried with the Audi A4, no go.
Guess the Volvo sits until spring time. Wish I would've thought about pulling it out day before I pulled the front shaft out of the Rover..Deeerrrrr.
The truck is designed to be AWD, so while it's ok to drive with the front shaft out, I wouldn't tow. Otherwise, you're putting more stress on the rear drivetrain than it is designed to handle.


