Need a parts source for this job any help..please

 

see Land Rover Parts, Accessories and Information

Now these parts are high, so before paying AB or Rovers North, you might want to consider a dismantler (parts guy) on the site, or a salvage yard. And it would be unusual to have both fan motors and both resistor packs all dead at the same time. So you'll want to use the RAVE electrical drawings and be sure you have evaluated all the relays, fuses, etc.

 

I spoke with my independent mechanic and he said that both blowers were out and said a resistor was bad as well.. Been looking for these parts and you are correct very expensive..I have found the front blower motor on EBAY no resources around where I live for parts and have not found the rear blower yet.. Do you know if the resistors are the same on both blowers for the 2002 D2.. By the way this shop advertises for land Rover repair and I trust their diagnosis.. Should I see if he will order the parts and give them to me..I feel as though I can do this job myself.. They charge $88 an hour labor not too bad but I think I can do this repair..
Thanks for help

 

The front blower and transistor (these trucks evidently use transistors instead of resistors) is really easy, 4 bolts to take out the glove box and 4 christmas tree plugs to take off the bottom panel. Then its 3 bolts on the blower and a single on the transistor. Don't take out the 4 inner bolts on the transistor as they just hold it to the plastic plate which pops out when you take the single bolt out. The transistor is located at the connector immediately to the left of the blower. I don't have rear AC so cant comment on that but I assume it is a similar process.

 

If both are out at the same time it may be a bad fuseblock. There is a known problem with power transfering from the connectors on the back through the fuseblock to the blower fuses 6 & 7. I had problems with the interior fuseblock and the engine bay fuseblock. Check out my fix from 2008 below.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...m-fixed-22524/

As to the resistors, wide open fan speed bypasses the resistors. If you have wide open fan but no slower speeds it is bad resistors. Otherwise it is likely one of or both fuseblocks that is the problem. Either check for power where I note in my fix or pull a blower and apply 12volt to see if it works before buying any parts. My bypass fix is less than $20(if that is the needed fix).

 

Hey thanks for info.. I dont have any blowers at all ...in-fact I know from the mechanic that my compressor is good..Just need a refrigerant charge and some blowers..I agree it seems strange that both blowers are out...Maybe I can get him to do the front system and then try your trick..I kind of like some blower speed adjustment though..Fuse blocks are expensive new..I was just looking at prices..230 for under the hood and 325 for the passenger compartment..I am not that talented with electrical trouble shooting maybe its time to break out the multi-meter and dive in..I know that the rear system has its own speed control **** in the back and I think you can also control it from the front.. I dont know.. I just need to hear what he wants to charge me and then decide to ride with or without ac/heat for awhile..
Thanks

 

Hey it has been sometime since your reply with my ac problems...Thanks for any help ...I had the mechanic repair the front ac....Blower motor,resistor pack and charged the system..They also replaced some bad wiring somewhere up front near the blower motor Update here it looks like they put an in-line 25 amp fuse on the brown red wire side of the connector that plugs into the blower up front and ran a wire to the outside of the fuse block under the hood..My rear ac is still down because I thought it would be an easy fix...Well I have trouble shot things with my multi meter..I also replaced the resistor in the rear system thinking that would do it..Well it did not..I have tested the blower motor with a battery it comes on..Tested the control switch in the overhead for rear ac...It seems to work..Relay..I can hear it clicking when I push the blower motor button at the control switch in the overhead..I checked all connectors in the back for voltage..I have voltage at the connector that plugs into the blower..I tested the fuse block in the passenger compartment like you said... I have over 12 volts at fuse 6 but nothing at fuse 7 probably because they cut the wire that goes to that connector 585..I have pulled the block out of passenger compartment and this is where I need help with a fix.. thanks for any help..

 

Look at connector C0707, pins 3 and 1. These are the grounds for ther rear HVAC. If they were open or corroded, you could have volts to frame at the plug, but motor would not run.

 

Power to both fuse 6&7 comes from wire 2, connector 0581, brown with pink color. Yellow green wire connector 0585 is to rear a/c blower from passenger fuseblock(fuse 6). Brown red wire connector 0584 is to front a/c blower from fuse 7.

Power to brown pink from engine bay fuseblock is from connector 0572 which receives power from fuselink 4.

The original problem is a bad fuseblock not transferring power from connector 0581 to fuses 6&7.

In my personal case I also did not have power at connector 0572 in the engine bay and had to bypass both fuseblocks.

 

I checked this plug as you said..I am not sure how to trouble shoot this plug with a meter..any suggestions..I think because the work was done on the front ac and they cut a wire going to connector 585 this is why I am not getting any volts at fuse 6 or fuse 7 where the fuses plug in.. I checked voltage behind the fuse box at the connector got volts at all wires at 6 but only 2 wires at 7 no volts from the brown / red wire which is the one that is cut at the front blower..Guessing I need to by pass the number 6 fuse slot ...just need to be sure and do it right...any comments on this if you understand my explanation..