Yes, I do have one. What should I measure?

 

Rave, under brakes, shows the pins that the wheel speed sensors go to at the ecu. I would splice into the wires for both the front wheel speed sensors. If you run a few jumper wires you should have no problem closing the hood and driving the truck. Set the meter to a/c volts and watch the increase in voltage on the good side as you accelerate. Then look at the voltage signal on the bad wheel at your 10mph range when the lights comes on. See if anything is obviously different.

Connector at ecu
C0505
Pin 1
Pin 2
Pin 3
Pin 4

 

Hit the wrong key.
Connector 0505 at ecu
Pin 1 Front left wheel speed
Pin 2 Front left wheel speed
Pin 3
Pin 4 Front right wheel speed
Pin 5 Front right wheel speed

 

Yes, I have one. What do I need to measure.

 

Thanks! I will try it over the next few days. Why would the signal be AC volts?

 

That wheel speed sensor is called an ac generator, meaning it produces an analog signal or alternating current. The dmm knows to look for an alternating voltage signal in a/c, instead of a steady current in d/c.

 

Thanks for the information and I really appreciate the help.

 

I have driven with DBA slotted and drilled rotors using Kevlar pads for 7 years with no issues.
Go to RSWSolutions.com and read up on the codes and testing procedures.
Let us know what you do.

 

I have the ABS scanner from RSW Solutions... His web site talks about rotor/pads/hubs as being a possible problem for the sensor error.
Does the sensor have to be at a certain height from the reluctor ring? Do you know what type of lubrication goes on the sensor; is it a special brand?

 

Yes, the air gap on that type of sensor is very specific in relation to the reluctor ring.