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Front Shaft Replacement

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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 02:53 PM
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Default Front Shaft Replacement

I want to replace my front shaft and its squeaking already. Are there special tools to replace them? I will order them on monday. Do I need to balance them or just bolt them and drive? Thanks
 
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 02:59 PM
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No special tools. Just a set of box wrenches and a socket set. If you bought a new one, you should be able to just slap it in and drive.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
No special tools. Just a set of box wrenches and a socket set. If you bought a new one, you should be able to just slap it in and drive.
Like Alex said, you just need a set of wrenches. I think the size was 9/16" but I'm not sure. Do not drive the truck until you install the new shaft. It will break and destroy the transmission.
Good luck.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscoCam
Like Alex said, you just need a set of wrenches. I think the size was 9/16" but I'm not sure. Do not drive the truck until you install the new shaft. It will break and destroy the transmission.
Good luck.

Thanks guys,
I ordered the shaft from from GBR of Utah. Bill spoke with me about 30mins with a lot of technical details, symptoms and replacement. Very helpful as well. I got my 1st heavy duty shaft from them long time ago (still in use) and this one is for my other disco with a squeaking shaft.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by LR03NJ
Thanks guys,
I ordered the shaft from from GBR of Utah. Bill spoke with me about 30mins with a lot of technical details, symptoms and replacement. Very helpful as well. I got my 1st heavy duty shaft from them long time ago (still in use) and this one is for my other disco with a squeaking shaft.
So I installed my shaft today. One thing I would have done different was not work with 4 wheels on the ground. Put the two front wheels on jack stands so they can spin in neutral. Rolling back and forth to get to the nuts sucks. When the new shaft goes in, the rear bolts up first because those 4 bolts don't come out. Once the rear is loosely bolted in, with the truck in neutral, park brake off, you can hand turn the shaft to mate up with the front flange holes to bolt in.

I used anti sieze on all bolts and flange plates to mate.

Use a THIN 9/16 spanner on the nuts to seat all the way for a good bite. My thicker spanner didn't seat all the way and almost rounded a nut.

Enjoy!
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Thanks for the shaft rotation and tooling advice.
......
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 10:42 PM
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Like jamieb says, use anti-seize. I learned this the hard way—my flange is now stuck to the transfer case, which I'm hoping I don't have to drop for any reason any time soon.

I bought the special tool for the 9/16" driveshaft nuts, which came in handy. It wasn't the ideal length—it was often obstructed by the crossbar near the front, but I could get it in a workable position with some fiddling. But at least you don't have the problem of your socket's walls being too thick. You can get these in 1/2" and 3/8" drive versions: Land Rover Parts, Accessories and Information
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 10:46 PM
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Some wobble extensions for my 3/8 socket were nice to have as well.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 11:27 PM
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wobble extensions
One of the best things since sliced cheese.
......
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 11:29 PM
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I'd only be cautious about using them to reinstall the shaft—you won't get an accurate torque with a wobble joint, I believe.
 
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