This is great, thank you. Will give this a go.

 

I haven't seen that yet in the LR manuals, I hope they're great. I have seen it in many other WDs. It is frustrating to me in a big way; I'm an EE and have a hatred for incorrect documentation. Couple bad schematics with people with only a rudimentary understanding of how electrical stuff works and you end up with lots of folks who can't figure out what's wrong with their broken stuff.

 

LR manuals are very accurate, very rare a color is wrong. Looking at the diagram you posited, have you double checked the grounds at the switches?

 

This is what I did today. I soldered up a pin to wire to wire to make a backstabber, connected that to the battery ground. Which should be a solid ground.

I back stabbed C0660:
Pin 1,2,18, 19 switch did nothing. Although now the back lighting on my instrument cluster is out, and it is not the fuse. If you look at this photo, wires at 18 and 19 are red green and green green. Which per the wiring diagram, I am looking for the Black Blue and Black Silver. Which are pinned into 21 and 22. When I backstabbed those two, no luck either.

It appears that pin 1 and 2 be incorrect, these are not the same colours. RAVE says they are GU Breen and Blue, and BK Black and Pink wires. Mine are actually purple, and white blue.
Black pink is 25 and Green Blue is 22 I think.

H20nSnow, where did you find the wiring diagrams that you have posted? They are very helpful. If I run power to directly to the pin on the BCU where the BS and BR wires connect that should make the left window go up and down. If that does not happen, that means I have a bad BCU?


Pin 1 is Purple, far right. Pin 2 is White
The Green Blue looks like pin 9 and Black in pin 3.
For the record, the Red Blue pin is 6 in my connector but per RAVE it should be in 8. Not that the RU is germane to my problem, only that it does not appear to match RAVE.




Then I pulled the switches out and back stabbed to ground the middle two wires, wires 3 and 4, you could hear the BCU clicking but the windows did not work.



Of the four wires in the switch, which two should I jump to bypass the switch? Or, is there another way to force the windows to function? I have swapped BCUs and switches and non of them work. If I connect power directly to the motor, it works. If I connect power to the plug that goes into the BCU, 664, the window work. It has to be something between the BCU and the switch. I can hear the BCU clicking, but it is not actually sending current? I suppose I should back test for voltage in 0664, to see if the BCU is sending current to the windows.

Any other ideas?
Thanks in advance for all the thoughts. This might be my white whale of a rover issue.

 

The red wires on the window switches are the illumination power, the black is the ground. You should be able to jumper either of the other two to the ground and accomplish the same as activating the switch.

None of the windows work? All the switch does is close the circuit on the BCU to tell it up or down. If you hold the switch down, what voltage do you measure across the BCU connector to the window motor (at the BCU).

 

I believe that the wiring layout in the D2 Electrical Library shows the plug from the FRONT, not the back.
That is, in your first photo pin 1 is at the top right and 14 is at the bottom right.

 

If i jump either of the other 2 wires to ground, I can hear the clicking of the BCU, but the windows do not move. This is only the front windows. The rear work fine, they are on a different system.

The issue seems to be that only about .1v is being sent from the BCU to the window motor. If i connect the motors to power directly, the work fine. When I test the grey pink and grey blue wires that exit the BCU, while plugged into the BCU, I get .01V when I hit the switches for the right window. It sounds to me the BCU receives 12 volts but is only distributing .01V. When I was testing last week, sometimes there was as much as 5 volts at the actual wiring harness at the motor.

Last week, my front sunroof would not close, opened fine, rear operated correctly. But then a day later it would close. not sure if that is related, I could not find anything obvious.

The D1s had a BCU that you could open and there were solder joints that would fail I got distracted from this thought by replacing the BCU and not fixing the problem. I suppose the BCU i tried was also defective, but the other windows would work.

 

That would mean that 1 is the orange and 13 in red yellow, in the original photo. Per RAVE, 1 is GU, green yellow and 13 is PN,

I was lining up the the top, the flexible clip part of the harness, that you cannot see in the photo with the below from rave.



1 GU ALL
2 BK ALL
3 LGW ALL
4 PLG ALL
5 UG ALL
6 GW ALL
7 KB ALL
8 RU 9
9 RW 9
10 WK ALL
11 B ALL
12 WU 13
13 PN ALL
14 KO 41
15 PO ALL
16 KR ALL
17 PW ALL
18 BS ALL
19 BU ALL
20 LGS ALL
21 LGG ALL
22 RG 9
23 RS 9
24 RK 9
25 RP 9
26 RY 9


I think I need to ignore the diagrams, and just go off the actual color of the wires and hope that is correct.

 

In your first photo, the wire at the top right (pin 1) is green, not the orange that you're claiming. Pull the plug out and look at it from the non-wire side, with the locking tab on top. Pretty sure the wire colours will match the RAVE when you do that.

 

That might be the difference, looking from the insulation v the terminal side. thanks