As it states, my two front window stopped working. I replaced the motor in the passenger side, bench tested, works fine. Works if I connect directly to the battery.

I hear the clicking under the dash. I tried to find a bad ground, but all the wiring looks good, the fuses and fusible links all look good. I tried to connect the power to the plug line and ground to the battery, see below photo. That did not fix it. Does that mean that it is not a grounding problem?

I do not get more than about 5 volts at the plus when I hit the window switch.

Where else should I start looking? I was going to swap window switches, but both front do not work and the front and rear are not interchangeable.

I have not taken apart the drivers side, I suppose the issue could be there. But if I recall correctly, the passenger side window was the first one to fail. Could a bad/rusty driver side motor cause both side not to work?

How else could I not be getting 12v at the plug?

This is driving me nuts.

 

There is a plug in the door jamb, you can pull the rubber boot loose and reach the plug there, check the voltage there, it is possible you have a broken or worn wire although unlikely on both doors. Also check voltage at the switch fee line. Switch is most common failure, I carry spare in glove box because it is a bad day if they fail down on a rainy day.

 

Thanks for the note.
I get
Driver side:
Black/ red ~14v
Black/ Red/green stripe ~14v

Passenger side:
Blac/ red about 14 v
Black to Red-Brown, about 14 volts.

The Black to the switched lines, i get about 990 for all 4 permutations.

That means that my issue is down stream from the switch? If i am looking at it correctly, the D1 had the BCU that would lose solder connections that could be repaired. The D1 looks like a different BCU that does not appear to be serviceable.

I pulled out all the trim panels, there is no rust or indication of water intrusion. The driver side could certainly have something hidden behind the fuse box, but what you can see from the surface is clean.

Is a replacement BCU the next step? I think I read they can be reprogrammed by leaving the key on for 5 minutes, is that accurate? Would a used BCU tell me enough about the fix, and I can get it programed later?

Thanks for the help on this.

 

Its not the buttons, or switches. I got replacements, same story. You can hear the clicking, but nomovement.

I acquired a BCU from the junk yard, I think my plan to plug that in and see if that fixes it.

 

You need a matched BCU and ECU, and the instrument cluster unless you are ok with the flashing odometer.

 

I can help with that. I have a couple of sets of electronics if you want to go full monty. You're welcome to try a BCU first if you want, not sure if there's any long term effects of plugging one in to see if the windows work though (like the flashing odo and/or any other mismatch).

 

Thanks for the offers. I was able to get a BCU, and matching cluster, ECU. Plugged in the new BCU, got the flashing odometer and the back windows worked, but the front still do not work.

So, its not the motors, BCU, switches, fuses, there is no relay involved.

Where do I look next? This is killing me.

At this point I would even take it to a professional.

 

You say you bench tested the motors, did you test the regulators too? Could excessive friction in the mechanism/tracks be overcoming the force of the motors and preventing the glass from moving?

 

You have to trace the wiring from the switches to the BCU and from the BCU to the door plugs and window motors, find where your voltage drop.

 

Dealt with this on a customer's disco recently. The break in the wire was in the door jamb. Check continuity on the wire between the inside of the door and the connector under the kick panel.

Also check continuity through the connector. Sometimes those terminals lose retention.