Frozen Brake
#1
Frozen Brake
Good morning - kinda.
I have a 2001 Disco, 85K miles. I had the 3 Amigos go on and off intermittently. I had it checked and the dealer told me I needed (I believe - bad memory) a new ABS Modulator for about $2000 or more. The brakes/ABS were working fine. The rear pads were very worn so I replaced the pad and rotors with parts from British Atlantic. The lights did seem to go away.
Its now been about a month. My wife told me something seemed wrong with the truck. I went to drive it to work this morning and found that the 3 lights are back solid (they used to shut off when the cars ignition was cycled) and the left rear caliper seemed to be frozen. The brake was very hot - obvious odor - etc.
Before I ran off to buy a new caliper I decided to review some online info. I noticed a couple of things. While I have found many procedures that do not call for bleeding the brakes, I now see a few that do. I did not bleed them and did use the old pad and a c-clamp method to open the caliper. The piston seemed fine at the time. Cleaned everything up and replaced the guide pins.
Could my problem be limited to the caliper or might there be more to it? If I contaminated the ABS system - will a good bleed of the system fix any issues?
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2001 Disco, 85K miles. I had the 3 Amigos go on and off intermittently. I had it checked and the dealer told me I needed (I believe - bad memory) a new ABS Modulator for about $2000 or more. The brakes/ABS were working fine. The rear pads were very worn so I replaced the pad and rotors with parts from British Atlantic. The lights did seem to go away.
Its now been about a month. My wife told me something seemed wrong with the truck. I went to drive it to work this morning and found that the 3 lights are back solid (they used to shut off when the cars ignition was cycled) and the left rear caliper seemed to be frozen. The brake was very hot - obvious odor - etc.
Before I ran off to buy a new caliper I decided to review some online info. I noticed a couple of things. While I have found many procedures that do not call for bleeding the brakes, I now see a few that do. I did not bleed them and did use the old pad and a c-clamp method to open the caliper. The piston seemed fine at the time. Cleaned everything up and replaced the guide pins.
Could my problem be limited to the caliper or might there be more to it? If I contaminated the ABS system - will a good bleed of the system fix any issues?
Thanks in advance.
#3
RE: Frozen Brake
You have a few options, rebuild the caliper, buy 2 rebuilt ones or 2 new ones. When a front fails, if you only replace 1 of them, the other will have a different stopping forces and can cause the truck to pull left or right.
And just to set the records straight, you always do a full, 3 pints of DOT 4, flush, unless you want something like this to happen.
Shout if you have any questions.
And just to set the records straight, you always do a full, 3 pints of DOT 4, flush, unless you want something like this to happen.
Shout if you have any questions.
#4
#5
RE: Frozen Brake
What you need for the ABS modulator is the shuttle valve kit from www.atlanticbritish.com, it will rebuild your bad ABS modulator.
It is less than half the price of what the dealer would charge you.
It is less than half the price of what the dealer would charge you.
#6
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post