I'll give you all of my symptoms and tell me what you guys think.

So my 2003 Disco II has been running a little rough at idle and I had a check engine light come on. Turns out that it is the bank one sensor one is bad, which I'm told is the one that regulates rich and lean, correct me if I'm wrong.

So last night I get into my vehicle and it won't start. The starter is engaging, but the engine is either not getting spark or not getting fuel. So I had a friend pick me up so I wouldn't be late for a breakfast meeting, and came back to work on it later in the day. Well, it started on first turn. However, when I got back to the house and tried to crank it warm, it wouldn't start, Now it won't start period.

So I sprayed a little starter fluid and it would start to turn over, which I would assume, means I have spark. But to be honest I thought that the engine would turn over a little more than it did.

So the next thing that I had to look to was the fuel. So, I switched the fuel pump relay and the washer relay to see if that would remedy it didn't. Is the only thing I have left to diagnose is a bench test of the fuel pump?

Thanks

Paul

 

If it wont start when warm then it could be the crank sensor, that is the #1 suspect for a hot no start issue on a DII.
They tend to fail around 70k or so, they are about $65 at AutoZone and there is a write up on "how to" in the "how to" section.

Here is what you need to do the next time it happens.
Pull the #1 spark plug, reattach the plug wire and then try and start it, does it spark?
No?
Replace the crank sensor.

The #1 cause of O2 codes on a LR is the need for a tune up.
The rough idle and check engine light tells me you are in desperate need of a tune up.

 

+1 spike. crank sensor and a 60k service.

 

Thanks for the advice I didn't think about that. The interesting thing is I just had the 60k service done at the Land Rover dealership here in town and it came back to me running rough and with the check engine light on. I hadn't had time to go by and have them look at it again.

 

did they change the wires and plugs? usually they put on 7mm wires and cheap plugs that can cause our rigs to misfire.

 

Yes, the did change the wires and plugs and I told them I wanted the 8mm and my bill says that I was sold 8mm's. Is it everyone's opinion that I've probably got a bad O2 sensor and a bad crank sensor, if I'm not getting spark on the #1?

PS You guys are great!

 

They dont put cheap plug wires its cause OEM directly from LR. doesn't fail unless installed wrong. Commonly when you take off plug wires if they are bad then they get worse after installing plug wires. Four and six are known for this.

 

Can you post later to let us know how you make out with the sensor? If you do it yourself and figure out a tip, let us know. It's a little tricky to get to it.

 

let me clarify... nothing is cheap from the dealer. it is of poor or lesser quality. they install 7mm OEM plugs that is correct. they tend to break down and don't hold up as well as 8mm plugs do. As for plugs. yes they use poor quality plugs and charge about $7.50 a piece where you can get the bosch +4's for about $4.50.

 

You must replace O2's in sets, so both fronts or both rears kinda thing.

Your O2 may not be bad, but when a engine is not running at peak the O2's have to over work and then they throw codes.
What you need to do to confirm it is a bad O2 is have a scanner that reads live data hooked up to the truck and drive it and watch the O2's on the screen.
You can rent these scanners or buy one for $100.
I bought mine off of e-bay, it was $80 and it says "HO2 faulty" if it is bad. (heated O2)
If you are getting mis fire cods I would NOT replace any O2's, fix the mis fires first.