I usually check at the battery, so I thought he was getting .05 total, not just for that circuit.

 

Ok so thanks for your help. After testing everything pulling off things one by one, I have concluded it is the Body Control Unit, I take it that is where the Engine Immobilizer is located???

The readings were quite different this time ranging from 0.05 to 0.44 while unplugging one by one and retesting the CD changer, clock and every interior light (at first I thought it was the glove box light but for some reason it gets no power at all)

Then it was down to the BCU, while plugged in it read between 0.11 and 0.27. Body Control Unit unplugged reads 0.00!! Tried it 4 times!

Now the problem is replacing the BCU, the check engine light is now on and says that the ECU is bad. Would that just be the BCU telling the ECU it is bad?? Should I just replace both since I'm pretty sure the Body Control Unit has to be reprogrammed to my truck, might as well get both done at the same time and save labor costs in case it is both right??

 

Ok so thanks for your help. After testing everything pulling off things one by one, I have concluded it is the Body Control Unit, I take it that is where the Engine Immobilizer is located???

The readings were quite different this time ranging from 0.05 to 0.44 while unplugging one by one and retesting the CD changer, clock and every interior light (at first I thought it was the glove box light but for some reason it gets no power at all)

Then it was down to the BCU, while plugged in it read between 0.11 and 0.27. Body Control Unit unplugged reads 0.00!! Tried it 4 times!

Now the problem is replacing the BCU, the check engine light is now on and says that the ECU is bad. Would that just be the BCU telling the ECU it is bad?? Should I just replace both since I'm pretty sure the Body Control Unit has to be reprogrammed to my truck, might as well get both done at the same time and save labor costs in case it is both right??

 

Your money is going out the door pretty quick here. The BCU controls lots of things and has a legitimate need for drain in key off position. You may have upset the sync between the BCU and the ECU. Might try arm/disarm with keyfob 5-10 times, or key on / no crank for 5 minutes.

While you are doing all this would strongly suggest you use something to keep hood switch depressed, so truck does not think a break in happened while it was asleep.

If ECU was bad, truck might not run at all. What code number do you get on scanner? Will it clear?

 

Key fob was lost years ago, I've been running with a cut "blank" since. Hood stayed closed during the test for that reason. I have driven it with the fuse in for 5 miles since then and it didn't cut off.

The truck is throwing 2 Bad ECU codes, they are closed now so I will have to wait till morning to get the specific ones, but yes it clears but comes back on quite quickly. And no, the truck does not run very well as is, not at all. I have repaired SEVERAL issues since fixing it up to sell, now just electrical left.

 

Before I'd think of replacing the BCU I'd be doing a lot more checking. Not having a working transmitter for the alarm is adding to the difficulty. You need to look at the electrical portion of the rave, disconnecting the BCU may eliminate the draw but the draw may be somewhere downstream of the BCU since it acts as a control unit and unhooking the entire plug eliminates a whole host of possibilities. I was looking and noticed the fuse 20 also powers the "key in ignition" sensor. There's the possibility of other less apparent consumers that could be causing your draw. It's just that when the price of the part goes up, I tend to get more cautious with condemning a component. Just food for thought.

 

Sorry, I failed to mention exactly which plugs I disconnected. There are 2 culprits, the yellow plug towards the cabin, C0661 (the input from fuse 20), when only it is unplugged, fuse 20 still reads 0.10. When only the grey long plug towards the firewall, C0660 is unplugged, the circuit reads 0.01. When both plugs are disconnected, BOOM, 0.00.

I agree, I will have to test all the components associated with C0660, it just baffles me that Fuse 20 is what has to be pulled when it seems to be mostly the other BCU plug???

I did test the key and when turned off is 0.00 and when on it is 0.10, of course that was with the 2 BCU plugs disconnected. Also checked the hood sensor for sure and it shows 0.00 as well.

After reading more about the BCU in RAVE, I think it may be effecting other things as well, such as lights on the bottom portion of the digital A/C controls, the clock light and most importantly, the 'click' noise I hear when I haven't started the truck for a while, like the starter relay is sticking only 'clicking' the solenoid and not engaging the starter. I even replaced the starter and still have the same issue. And I have gone through 3 sets of door lock actuators all the way around in 6 years!

I have found BCUs online (used with warranty) for around $60ish, I will ask the Land Rover Specialist here how much to reprogram, but I'm guessing $90-150?? I'm not dead set on this being a fix all, but I wonder if it is worth replacing? Thanks for your thoughts and solutions!