gear and xfer case oil additive required?
#11
03-25-2011, 08:20 AM
#12
03-27-2011, 09:48 AM
Question, I think Rave has a typo... the axle and xfer case list as expected the higher torque for the drain plugs... im assuming this follows with the tranny, but just to be sure...
From rave:
From rave:
Automatic gearbox oil drain plug 15 Nm (11 lbf.ft)
Automatic gearbox oil drain plug 30 Nm (22 lbf.ft)
#14
03-27-2011, 10:38 AM
#15
03-27-2011, 03:07 PM
Question, I think Rave has a typo... the axle and xfer case list as expected the higher torque for the drain plugs... im assuming this follows with the tranny, but just to be sure...
From rave:
From rave:
Automatic gearbox oil drain plug 15 Nm (11 lbf.ft)
Automatic gearbox oil drain plug 30 Nm (22 lbf.ft)If it makes you feel better wrap the threads in plumbers tape, screw the damn things in and forgetaboutit.
#16
03-27-2011, 03:43 PM
I do not think you need to replace them. Unless they are bad (start leaking - which would be hard to do being the fluid does not sit above them - unless your upside down 
). I usually fill my diffs/xfer cases until the new oil starts to drip out of the fill hole. Just make sure the truck is on a level surface.
). I usually fill my diffs/xfer cases until the new oil starts to drip out of the fill hole. Just make sure the truck is on a level surface.No offense to Spike555, but I don't think he understands why there are plastic plugs on the fill side. It's a lesson you learn quickly when you work on old cars with brass or steel plugs for both fill and drain: always pull the fill first because it may not come out. You can always vac out of the fill plug if you can't get the drain out, but it's really kind of difficult to fill through the drain and know you got the level correct (and it makes a mess).
With a plastic fill plug, you can always easily break it out. Also, I've yet to see a plastic fill plug break at any time other than when its being removed, and I never try to remove one without another on hand as I don't like to re use them for that reason.
#17
03-27-2011, 04:07 PM
And if you do replace them, replace them with plastic ones, as per factory.
No offense to Spike555, but I don't think he understands why there are plastic plugs on the fill side. It's a lesson you learn quickly when you work on old cars with brass or steel plugs for both fill and drain: always pull the fill first because it may not come out. You can always vac out of the fill plug if you can't get the drain out, but it's really kind of difficult to fill through the drain and know you got the level correct (and it makes a mess).
With a plastic fill plug, you can always easily break it out. Also, I've yet to see a plastic fill plug break at any time other than when its being removed, and I never try to remove one without another on hand as I don't like to re use them for that reason.
No offense to Spike555, but I don't think he understands why there are plastic plugs on the fill side. It's a lesson you learn quickly when you work on old cars with brass or steel plugs for both fill and drain: always pull the fill first because it may not come out. You can always vac out of the fill plug if you can't get the drain out, but it's really kind of difficult to fill through the drain and know you got the level correct (and it makes a mess).
With a plastic fill plug, you can always easily break it out. Also, I've yet to see a plastic fill plug break at any time other than when its being removed, and I never try to remove one without another on hand as I don't like to re use them for that reason.
No offense taken, however all Rovers (over 50 years worth) all had brass fill/drain plugs.
Rover went plastic to save a few bucks, the plastic ones are not as water tight, they get all buggered up and usually need to be replaced everytime you take them off.
Each to their own, he, you, anyone can use whatever they want.
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