Yep. Like the non-graded bolts on the frame cross member support bars. With 10mm heads. Ridiculous.

 

A dab of Never-Seez from the factory would have worked wonders in this regard since LR was using non-graded bolts.

Water dripping constantly on this bolt when the A/C is on what ensures the corrosion in this case. That spot on the end of the transmission doesn't really get all that hot. The bolt on the other end of the XYZ switch (where the water does not drip) came right out easily and without the use of penetrating oil. I loosened it with a 1/4" 10mm and removed it with my fingers.

Of course you remove the front grille but the way LR mounted the radiator is still stupid. Not really up for debate.

Not to be argumentative, but I didn't make any mistakes in this circumstance. But yes, sometimes simple jobs turn into nightmares. Thank you LR.

 

Once again I am sorry for your situation, but blaming LR for every little thing from incorrect bolts, lack of anti-seize, and poor quality/design on a 13 year old vehicle isn't really relevant. It made it 13 years before the XYZ switch died! Maybe a Toyota 4Runner would be a better for you.

All of my LR's have been either from CA or TX so I have ZERO rust or corrosion issues. Not sure how it is up in PA, but that could have a lot to do with it.

The radiator on a RRC/D1/D2 is mounted in a fashion like 90% of all the vehicles on the road today. The D2 radiator is a 1hr job if that.

If you want a radiator to complain about then look no further than a 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7L V8. On earlier models 99 the entire bumper/grill was one piece and had to be removed along with the headlights, fog lights, and the inner fender splash guards. Then you had a hydraulic controlled cooling fan that had to be completely removed and disconnected. After that you had little mounts all over the place supporting the radiator, and finally as per Jeep you had to evac your AC System, disconnect the condenser, and remove it before you could remove the radiator. A LR D2 is removing a fan shroud, grill, fan clutch, move an oil cooler/transmission cooler, and some mounts that secure the radiator into place........

I understand your upset with your D2 and it's apparent lack of quality, and reliability, and honestly once someone gets that kind of attitude about a vehicle you're better off selling it and moving on IMHO. There is no such thing as a perfect vehicle. Look at all the recalls today from airbags (Honda, Toyota, Chevy, Ford, and many more), fires (2012-2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee's/Dodge Durango's), wide open throttles (2016 Ford Explorer), blown motors with less than 1k on them (2016 Honda Civic's), and those are all on much newer vehicles.

I still say lift the carpet, drill a hole in the floor, drill out the broken bolt, apply your anti-seize, mount the XYZ Switch and call it a day for another 13 years. If the bolt didn't break off 100% flush with the transmission I'd just install it with the one screw and call it a day as one bolt with the little peg of the other broken bolt would keep it from moving. Or go all out, smash the transmission to bits to relieve some stress with a 25LB Sledge Hammer, and slap in a 200-400 03-04 D2 Transmission with everything and call it a day.

 

True stuff Best4x4....
I seen a ton of rusty D2's on this site, I would pass on one too. Too bad we still have a rust belt in this country....
Time to sell the ol' D2 Fast951...It's obvious your over it. We've all been in your situation one time or another on different vehicles, so we all understand, mechanic work can be like that...Good luck on your next adventure

 

Sure. I'm just a little peeved at the prospect of removing the tranny after I JUST installed a new P38 engine and it's now 17 degrees here in PA. Plus, I need the vehicle for the bad weather and there it is again in the ******* garage in my wife's space on jackstands. So thanks, and I do appreciate your posts, but I'm just not in the mood for comparison to other crappy vehicles or the defense of Land Rover right now.

 

To be clear my D2 is rust free except where the blockheads at LR let the A/C discharge drip on my steel XYZ bolt screwed into aluminum with no anti-seize applied from the factory. Jeez!

 

Oh man! I didn't know that...a new motor just replaced too....I'd be totally pee'd too. Sorry

 

Yep. And I mean a new P38, not just new to me. NEW.

 

Look into drilling the hole thru the floor first vs a transmission drop. It looked possible when I ran outside to inspect the space down there. You can get floor drain plugs normally on the HELP isle at the auto parts store.

In that cold of weather on the garage floor, I think a 30.00 sleeping bag would be a good investment. Just get a mummy one, cut some holes in it for your arms to hang out, and go to work.

Good luck and report back with how it goes.

 

Damn, that's fancy. The sleeping bag idea might work? ha