That's ok, because then I'll forget about it and when it comes, I'll feel rich.

By the way, I wish I could at least do the setup unmounted (i.e., in my house.) Things like gas tank capacity, etc. can be done without any data being read, so it would be nice to not have to sit in my car to set it up. No biggie, but would be nice.

Now to pick an out of the way, but visible spot. And "hide" the wire somehow.

 

I placed it in the lower left-hand corner of the windshield. Pre-formed the bracket so as to have it as far back into that space as possible (out of the sun and outside eyes.)



I played with the auto screen change/scroll option, but it was too distracting. I now just use the one page and set my alarms accordingly. Pretty damn cool... it's frightening the innacurate range of our OEM temp gauge. Apparently, my DII runs at about 204.8 local - sometimes down to about 198-199. If I make a stop at a store or something and jump back in, it can be as high as 208.4 but quickly goes down once it idles for a second (the fans kicked in.) On the Palisades Parkway, on a 27-mile drive at about 60-65MPH (70 tops for passing,) she's about 204.8 and, at times, as low as 199.

In any case, not knowing the prior history of the vehicle since I bought her at 86K, I'll be doing the head gasket ASAP anyway. Better safe than sorry. Then I'll be diving into Mike's Major Service list, but first will change the throttle body heater (with gasket) and flush out the Dexcool for the Peak stuff.

These engines are f*cking fire! 'Never driven anything so hot before.

-Anthony

 

Every newer silverado runs at 210.

It's actually more effecient too

 

Is it aluminum, too?
Re: efficiency- I wonder if putting in the soft-spring 180 thermo cause hydrocarbons to go up?

 

No most likely not aluminum.

 

I just bought a 2012 5.3 Silverado and it does run at 210 and it is an aluminum engine.

 

Interesting how the same company (GM) over a period of sixty years with the same metal (aluminum) has gone from under 200F to over 200F, driven in part by the pollution standards. I'll stick with the older, cooler temps on the older designed engine (Rover bought an old design, and kept it that way). As far as life cycle, I've got an all aluminum Kia Sedona with 229,000 and it runs at 180F from the factory.

 

Can I assume that Kia is running under a lighter load, too? If so, that helps... a bit.

By the way, here's more pics to demonstrate my UG's location:

1. As seen from the outside w/ window up -barely visible


2. As seen from the outside w/ window down - somewhat visible, but since it's so far back it helps "hide" it... somewhat


3. From the "license and registration please" view. Yeah. Busted. In NJ, you can't place *anything* on the windshield. At all. The law is written in a way, that it doesn't need to technically "obstruct" view. It just has to be attached to the windshield for you to get a ticket. I just can't find a better place to put it... for now.


The wire, by the way, is run down the side of the dash, behind the fuse box cover, and to the OBDII port. It's "out of the way" without needing any adhesive. Also, because of the location, it stays in shade for most of the day. So, I don't have to remove it when parked.

-Anthony

 

The hotter you can run a engine the better the MPG because you get a more efficient combustion.
Run it to hot and it will melt.
210 is perfectly fine.
The size of the radiator also makes a difference, smaller radiator the colder the t-stat needs to be.
I have never understood you guys and your obsession with engine temps, I like to know the temp of everything I drive, but I dont worry about it.
As long as the gauge on the dash reads normal then I dont worry about it.
I like gadgets, the U-G is a great gadget that is also a great tool.
You are fine Ant, dont worry about it.

 

Thanks, Spike! UltraGauge-newbie obsession I guess.
I'll let it go now.

-Anthony