Getting started on my 03 DII
#22
2 weeks! Geez, I've been on here for almost 3, so I guess I'm an "expert" (not). I did, however, read 8 billion posts before I started in on this thing, so I felt well informed.
A coil typically works or it doesn't, but I suppose there can be lingering failure before one fails sometimes. Just given the ridiculous location of the coils made it a no-brainer that I would relocate them once I saw it was an option. I'm sure folks enjoy changing out plug wires in the stock location, but I rarely find a x-large glove that fits me, so I just can't reach in there and unplug that bottom row and know that I've gotten the new wire seated properly. The kit is pricey for what you get, but my time has value too and fabbing one up would take several hours. Now its Childs play for me and any future owner to change plugs, wires, and coils as necessary.
The inline thermostat is not really a convenience item. Its design is to eliminate the pressure operated thermostat from the factory. Yes, most are probably still running the stock thermostat that are on the road today, however, most will die of head gasket failure which can be linked back to the original coolant and the original thermostat. Since I knew replacing the original coolant was happening regardless, and my intensive reading indicated happy engine temps and owners who had done the mod, I jumped in. It is said that a 180 degree factory style thermostat is available, and that may be a viable option. However, eliminating the plastic bleeder and one complete hose from the system is a plus to me, and adds to the value of the mod. I think I ended up with just as many connections as far as hose clamps, but one less hose. Oh, and replacing the 15 year old spring steel clamps with worm drive clamps ain't all bad either.
A coil typically works or it doesn't, but I suppose there can be lingering failure before one fails sometimes. Just given the ridiculous location of the coils made it a no-brainer that I would relocate them once I saw it was an option. I'm sure folks enjoy changing out plug wires in the stock location, but I rarely find a x-large glove that fits me, so I just can't reach in there and unplug that bottom row and know that I've gotten the new wire seated properly. The kit is pricey for what you get, but my time has value too and fabbing one up would take several hours. Now its Childs play for me and any future owner to change plugs, wires, and coils as necessary.
The inline thermostat is not really a convenience item. Its design is to eliminate the pressure operated thermostat from the factory. Yes, most are probably still running the stock thermostat that are on the road today, however, most will die of head gasket failure which can be linked back to the original coolant and the original thermostat. Since I knew replacing the original coolant was happening regardless, and my intensive reading indicated happy engine temps and owners who had done the mod, I jumped in. It is said that a 180 degree factory style thermostat is available, and that may be a viable option. However, eliminating the plastic bleeder and one complete hose from the system is a plus to me, and adds to the value of the mod. I think I ended up with just as many connections as far as hose clamps, but one less hose. Oh, and replacing the 15 year old spring steel clamps with worm drive clamps ain't all bad either.
#23
I think I'm nearing road testing.
I need a 1-1/4" hose coupler and topping off the antifreeze to complete the thermostat mod.
Shop called today and said my hood is ready to pick up.
Got my Ultragauge in the mail today.
Lucky8 has my Tom Woods front driveshaft on the way. I'm not even going to pull it out of the shop til that's installed.
Lucky8 also has my Disco I wiper arms and blades on the way.
Fingers are crossed that it turns out to be a good one. I like it more every time I look at it.
I need a 1-1/4" hose coupler and topping off the antifreeze to complete the thermostat mod.
Shop called today and said my hood is ready to pick up.
Got my Ultragauge in the mail today.
Lucky8 has my Tom Woods front driveshaft on the way. I'm not even going to pull it out of the shop til that's installed.
Lucky8 also has my Disco I wiper arms and blades on the way.
Fingers are crossed that it turns out to be a good one. I like it more every time I look at it.
Last edited by bcurtman; 01-28-2019 at 08:28 PM. Reason: added wipers
#24
#25
Well, I finished up all the mods and started it up for the first time since I drove it in the shop. High idled upon start and then settled down nicely. Runs smooth, revs nice, BUT I have misfire codes for 1-3-5 and 7, plus p1300 and p1884. So, my extensive reading here again tells me to replace the o2 sensors upstream and clean the MAF. Ordered the NTK O2 sensors from rockauto, $52 vs $79 locally each. This site has been so valuable and will continue to be. Anyone have any other input on these codes? I'm on the right track?
#26
Well, I finished up all the mods and started it up for the first time since I drove it in the shop. High idled upon start and then settled down nicely. Runs smooth, revs nice, BUT I have misfire codes for 1-3-5 and 7, plus p1300 and p1884. So, my extensive reading here again tells me to replace the o2 sensors upstream and clean the MAF. Ordered the NTK O2 sensors from rockauto, $52 vs $79 locally each. This site has been so valuable and will continue to be. Anyone have any other input on these codes? I'm on the right track?
#27
Put some new brake hoses and a flush on your list if you haven't already. Including the short connecting hoses against the outside frame, in the ds wheel well. For the calipers, I suggest the extended, coated, braided hoses that are available. Check the condition of your calipers too. If your brakes aren't in good condition, the traction control won't work right, and you'll make us all look bad when you get stuck somewhere!
#28
Both coils are new. Odds do not all come off one coil....
I'm confused.
Or are you saying each individual coil is comprised of two individual coils molded together? Maybe I see that. I have two more new coils, bought four so I'd have spares!
Not the o2 sensor????
I'm confused.
Or are you saying each individual coil is comprised of two individual coils molded together? Maybe I see that. I have two more new coils, bought four so I'd have spares!
Not the o2 sensor????
Last edited by bcurtman; 02-01-2019 at 08:16 PM. Reason: add question
#29
My personal experience tells me that when a coil fails it tends to fail such that two cylinders stop firing. It did not make sense to me based on the visual of the back of the coil, but in the installed position I know that the coils are paired vertically. 1&7, 8&2, etc.
Based on your description you have one coil where the outer coil is bad and one where the inner coil is bad. You can test my theory by swapping them left to right, or swap them with your other new ones. If I am right you should return them as defective. It is possible I am wrong, but it woudl be a strong coincidence that those pairs just happen to be the ones with bad plug wires, unless of course you mixed up the wires when installing them. That is also possible.
#30
Well, I finished up all the mods and started it up for the first time since I drove it in the shop. High idled upon start and then settled down nicely. Runs smooth, revs nice, BUT I have misfire codes for 1-3-5 and 7, plus p1300 and p1884. So, my extensive reading here again tells me to replace the o2 sensors upstream and clean the MAF. Ordered the NTK O2 sensors from rockauto, $52 vs $79 locally each. This site has been so valuable and will continue to be. Anyone have any other input on these codes? I'm on the right track?